Johnnie Walker Black Circuit Lounge 2011

Now I know what it feels like to be Paris Hilton or any jet-setting celeb who parties out of a suitcase (minus the shenanigans). And the feeling’s simply terrific!

Imagine being flown to another city, lodged into a classy 5-star hotel, wined-and-dined at some of the most happening boutique restaurants, just to attend an exclusive V-VIP dance party… that’s like being handed the holy grail of the clubber’s bible!

For the socialites and crème de la crème of the entertainment circuit, this kind of treatment may be a drink of water but for a nobody like me, it’s something I’m still showering my karmic angels with kisses for. I am so very grateful. If I sound like I’m gushing here, please bear with me. This is the first time I’ve ever been invited on a party-and-blog stint overseas. Kuala Lumpur isn’t very far away, but to be inducted into the Johnnie Walker entourage is something to holler about because when the world’s number one Scotch whiskey brand says it’s a V-VIP experience, it REALLY is.

The bigshot feeling started at the airport where each of us was given a very nice party accessory that also acted as an entry ‘pass’ to the Black Circuit Lounge event (if you have no idea what this event is about, please visit my pre-trip entry here). The guys were given a stylish money-clip while the gals received an exquisite necklace with a pendant in the shape of Johnnie Walker’s trademark Striding Man. There’s a set of numbers behind each of these welcome gifts and were used to gain admittance at the venue. What a clever way to combine a party invite with a functional keepsake to remember the event by. So, was the event memorable?

Is a blue sky blue? A black swan black? Grass green? And I’m handsome? Haha… gotcha!

Matters of opinion are always subjective but I did find the party to be memorable. I’m not paying lip-service because I was well-hosted for the event; neither is my favourable impression a result of my propensity to dance even to your handphone’s ringtone if I have enough alcohol in me, but as a comparison to the big parties I’ve been to. The party was packed so I guess that speaks of its standards.

Anyway, here’re some photos and a video that illustrate my checkpoints of fun during Black Circuit Lounge 2011…

The venue was located within The MINES Resort City at Seri Kembangan, about 30 mins by car from KL city centre depending on traffic conditions. The out-of-city location added a shroud of mystery as to what the actual set-up looks like.

The party space was created with a huge tent erected on an empty plot near the Palace of the Golden Horses Hotel. The ultra posh hotel is a nominee at this year's World Luxury Hotel Awards. The whole look and feel of the Black Circuit Lounge was alright but I much preferred it to be non-smoking inside the tent.

Totally in love with the awesome lasers, lighting placement & chereography. As the venue was medium sized, the lights filled the whole space nicely without it being too blinding or having not enough length for the laser beams to really stretch.

Posing with the iconic Johnnie Walker Striding Man and the sizzling lady, Fadilah. And here's my version of the Twin Towers with the Black & Gold labels. The Black Label has a blend of about 40 whiskies aged at least 12 years old while the Gold Label is a blend of around 15 single malts bottled at 15 or 18 years. The Gold Label commands a prestige second only to the most expensive bottle in the Johnnie Walker collection... the Blue Label. Each bottle is individually serialised & sold in a silk-lined box. I shall go Blue to celebrate my 40th birthday!

About 1,400 V-VIP guests turned up for the party & there were iPad stations for us to post updates on Facebook. I felt that the guests at Black Circuit Lounge in Malaysia embraced spontaneity & bizarre antics better than those at the Jet Black Party in Singapore.

Good looking people with a wide body vocabulary of beautiful grooves were everywhere. It's like a model bomb exploded in there! I left the party with a crust of sugar on my pupils from all those eye candies. Even my companions for the trip were head-turners that will cause vision diabetes. Seek doctor's advice before seeing the next 2 pics. They may raise blood pressure & cause hyperventilation. Ha.

In the company of social influencers. (Left to right) Simran from online news portal asiaone.com. She handles the Plush section which according to her, requires her to party all the time & write about them. Sounds like the best job in the world! Next to her are singers Vanessa (formerly a DJ with 98.7FM under the moniker Ms Vandetta) & Alicia who's a health nut with an irrepressible energy. Then there's Fadilah who I owe my invite to; & Jak, Brand Manager for Johnnie Walker. These 2 are only in their 20s but they're really good at what they do... people with substance. At the back are Charlie & her husband who were my unit mates at the Ascott serviced apartments where we put up. Hope they weren't traumatised by having spent the night with me.

More of the who who's I went with. Top left : We are joined by Harry, who deejays for Power 98FM & a really funny guy! Top right : With the bubbly & effervescent Maggie Tan, a familiar face in the Singapore modelling arena, & Christopher Pua, Cleo Bachelor of the Year 2007. (Note to self : Never stand next to this guy when taking photos. He amplifies the Big Mac effect of my face.) Bottom left : Thumbs up for Eugene, our photographer for the night. Bottom right : With 2 of the 3 blogger dollies - Yee Kit & Jocelyn. Looking at them was like seeing Japanese anime characters come to life! Check out their blogs at kit-soloveyou.blogspot.com, jocelynkau.com, & myfatpocket.com/celestina-loves.

Never drink & drive. Johnnie Walker stands by this reminder very seriously. I posted a shoutout on my Facebook before the trip to jokingly say that since 'I don't drive, I'm gonna drink till I can't walk.' Very promptly, I received an email to remind me of Johnnie Walker's advocacy in responsible drinking. So, Keep Walking if you've been drinking! That's good advice from the car.

I was recovering from a bout of flu just before departing for the 3D2N trip so I was rather deanimated most of the time from meds to stop the sniffles. But the party managed to inject life into me despite my limbs feeling like they weighed a ton!

For giving me the premium experience of V-VIP partying, I would like to thank the good folks at Johnnie Walker who took very good care of us. To Simran and Fadilah, I am regretful about the puke facial I gave you gals, but I hope your complexions are glowing now. Muahahaha

For super class partying, Step Inside the Circuit of Johnnie Walker’s premium Scotch whiskies…

For more photos of the event and this trip to KL with quick quips on places to eat, please click here. If you’d like to be informed of upcoming Johnnie Walker parties and get a chance to be invited to these fabulous events, click here to join the Johnnie Walker Singapore Facebook fanpage!

Jet Set Partying with Johnnie Walker

Hot on the heels, or should I say wheels, of Johnnie Walker’s exclusive Jet Black Party in Singapore to mark the 2011 Formula One season, I have the privilege to be invited to the next leg of its premium circuit event in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia!

Dubbed the Johnnie Walker Black Circuit Lounge, it is the official race party of the Malaysian Grand Prix and the world’s top-selling Scotch whiskey label will be pulling all stops to create an experience so luxurious, guests are promised V-VIP treatments and a taste of the high-flying lifestyle enjoyed by the likes of Lewis Hamilton (2008 Formula One World Champion) and Jenson Button (2009 World Drivers’ Champion). Now, this may sound like a pursuit of hedonism in excess, but really, the spirit of the Black parties is a celebration of the ability within each of us to make things better, to improve, to progress… as embodied in the successes of these 2 drivers of the Vodafone McLaren Mercedes team.

Now, there are good grounds for me to be excited about the Black Circuit Lounge party this Saturday, it being an airfare and accomodation sponsored trip notwithstanding. If the Singapore Jet Black Party is a yardstick for the upcoming event at the Malaysian capital to be measured up against, I have a feeling the KL version is going to be even more spectacular! If you would like to know why the Singapore party was so cool, please click here to read my blog post about it. Meanwhile, here’s a glimpse of what the Jet Black Party was like…

I didn’t take a lot of photos and videos during the Johnnie Walker Jet Black Party because as you can tell from the video, I was too busy enjoying myself as a gyrating octopus! Gosh, I dance like I had tentacles instead of arms when I’m tipsy. Reminds me of those plastic tube dolls with a fan blowing beneath them and their hands waving wildly to attract attention at a car dealer or carnival. No idea what they are called, but I call my dancing… “tragic”.

So, the Black Circuit Party will be my chance at redemption, to ‘progress’ my body language of groove. And it seems there will be plenty of opportunities to practice my Justin Bieber Timberlake with 4 who’s who deejays from both sides of the Pacific Ocean…

- Superstar mix-vixen DJ Sophia Lin (USA)
- Show-stopping DJ Bento (Tokyo)
- Definitive Hip Hop DJs in Asia : DVDJ I-Tek (Hong Kong) and DJ Faith (Malaysia)

My legs are twitching already while writing their profiles down. I may even get to meet and talk to them during the trip! Woot! Woot!

To add another rung to my upward ladder of excitement, here’s a preview of what to expect at the Johnnie Walker Black Circuit Party with a personal invitation by Lewis Hamilton…

With the party trailer, I shall sign off this pre-trip post to start picking my wardrobe for glamour this weekend. If you’re out celebrating victories, personal progress or just to have a good time, make it Johnnie Walker! And remember, drink responsibly Cheers!

Legend of the Seas – Port Klang (Malaysia)

Darren : “Hello Kuala Lumpur, my old friend! It’s been quite a while that we haven’t met.”

KL : “You used to visit me at least once every year, but I’ve been missing you since 11 August 2008. What happened?”

Darren (apologetically) : “Erm… I love your retail therapy and food, but that’s all you offer. There’s nothing new or happening with you.”

KL (hurt) : “Why do you only seek what’s new with me? Have you ever found out what’s HAPPENED to me? Do you know how I got my name? Why many Hindus come to me? Or the treasure I hold that is the source of national pride?”

Darren (guiltily) : “No, I was too caught up with doing what was easy and never bothered to look deeper. Tell you what, this shore excursion offered by Legend of the Seas, I’m going to choose one tour that’ll let me know more about you.”

KL (smiling) : “Thank you my old friend! Good to see you again. And oh my, how you’ve put on that middle-age weight in the last two years.”

7 Dec 10 (Day 2) - We arrived at Port Klang, Malaysia, and guests are free to stay onboard to enjoy the activities for the day or join a shore excursion.

And so amongst the five land excursions offered by Legend of the Seas onboard the Isles of Southeast Asia cruise with stops at Kuala Lumpur (KL) and Phuket, I chose the Batu Caves and City Experience Tour for a more historical exploration of my old friend in Malaysia. Our gateway to the Malaysian capital city is the cruise immigration at Port Klang.

I went on the Batu Caves and City Experience tour which costs US$89. Space for the various tours are limited and tickets sold on a first-come-first-serve basis so book yours early to avoid disappointments.

Port Klang is the largest and busiest port in Malaysia and among the world’s top 20 ports for transhipment and container traffic. But it felt like the boondocks for a passenger who just alighted from a luxury cruise. The area is pretty sedate and mostly industrial. To get any action, we have to take an hour’s coach ride into Kuala Lumpur.

Yee Leong and I were all set to capture the sights of our KL land tour! But looking at his photos after, he definitely took much more interesting shots. I've learnt to see so many new angles through his photos.

Our land trip will take us to the Independence Square (Dataran Merdeka), Royal Selangor Visitor Centre, lunch at Dorsett Regency Hotel, and KL Tower. Although the tour was quite a rush, it’s a great way to explore some of the top sights in the city with comfort and the convenience of transport. Our tour guide, Elango was also at the top with the history of Malaysia and the places we visited.

And I’m glad to be exploring with Yee Leong who has a very keen eye for photography and a natural ability to get his human subjects to share with him their stories. For Yee Leong’s excellent Chinese post of our experience, please click here. We disembarked the ship at 7:30 am to begin our tour which ended at 4:30 pm (8 hours)

Our first stop was a 15-minutes browse of the Independence Square, a.k.a. the Padang, a.k.a. Dataran Merdeka. The day was overcast and gloomy. A perfect weather to explore a shelterless tourist attraction but the photos are gonna need a lot of colour enhancements with Photoshop to not look like black and white shots.

To compensate for this problem, Mui Yee, who took another land tour package to explore KL but had the Dataran Merdeka in her itinerary as well, used Photoscape to create some fancy colouration effects to enhance her photos. I’ve not tried the program, but according to her, it’s a freeware. So you may want to try it out to enhance your holiday pictures, especially on a grey day. To check out Mui Yee’s creative use of the program, please click here.

The Independence Square was formerly known as the Selangor Club Padang before being renamed as Dataran Merdeka on 1 January 1990.

The Dataran Merdeka is the place where Malaysia first celebrated its independence on 31 August 1957 and has since been the usual venue for the country’s annual National Day Parade. There are a number of historic landmarks around the square but we didn’t get to visit except for some quick photos of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building (which currently houses the offices of the Malaysian Ministry of Information, Communications, and Culture) and the St. Mary’s Anglican Cathedral.

Influenced by the Indian Moghul style of architecture, the stately Sultan Abdul Samad Building is a key historical landmark that watches the Independence Square by its side.

Behind the Sultan Abdul Samad Building is the meeting of two rivers. This convergence is of great importance to KL. If you would like to find out why is it important, read to the end of this post. (I know, the length of this post is a test of patience!)

If I had more time, I would definitely love to explore within the buildings and the other historic remnants in this district but we were herded back on the coach as quickly as we alighted. Elango apologised for the rush because we definitely have to be back at Port Klang by 4:00 pm as the ship has paid for docking charges till 5:00 pm. Maybe in my next trip back, I’ll make it a point to come back for more.

After about a half-hour’s drive, we arrived the main attraction of our tour… the sacred Hindu mountain temples at Batu Caves. I’ve been here once when shoulder pads were still cool so I don’t have much recollection of the place. But I was sure my childhood memory didn’t record this gigantic golden statue standing guard at the foot of the caves!

Entrance of Batu Caves temple with a 42.7m statue of the Hindu deity, Lord Murugan inciting a majestic gold welcome. Such splendour!

Batu Caves is famous for being one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside of India dedicated to Lord Murugan. The limestone mountain that houses the caves is said to have risen from the sea (because of seashell fragments found within the rocks) and estimated to be around 400 million years old.

A Hindu devotee offering a kavadi (burden) in sacrificial thanksgiving or as a form of penance-making. Milk or rice is usually used as offering in these silver pots.

Every year during the Hindu festival, Thaipusum, Batu Caves becomes a hive attracting more than one million devotees and thousands of tourists. Even during the off-peak period, Hindu devotees still comes here for prayers and devotional rituals such as this elderly man carrying a simple kavadi on his head.

It was heart-warming to see that he wasn’t making the spiritual journey alone and his family was there to climb the steps with him, holding him, supporting him, till they reached the main temple at the inner cave. I saw all these not because I stalked them but our paths crossed a couple of times both on the way up and down. Perhaps we are destined to meet.

Beware the monkeys at Batu Caves! They will find an opportunity to snatch your food or any loose knick knacks hanging loosely around you especially plastic bags that look like they contain food.

To get to the caves, we have to climb 272 steps to the top. It sounds daunting but it is definitely not a suicide mission. I’ve seen quite a few elderlies traversing the stairway with much greater ease than I did. But having said that, don’t expect this to be a walk in the park either. Especially when your every move is being watched by bandit monkeys!

If you keep moving, it’s fine. But when you stop to rest for a while, be vigilant of your belongings. The monkeys have the audacity to come up and snatch half-eaten food right from your hand. I don’t understand how someone can eat while panting from the climb but that’s what one lady was doing. Mid way up, she decided to stow her remainder food away and as soon as her hand came down with the plastic containing her chow, a monkey snatched it.

That happened just a few steps ahead of me. Seeing that, I slowly turned to look at my right side, the side closest to the forested slope and saw two monkeys staring at me. I took some photos of them, tightened my grip on my camera and ascended the steps ever faster.

Entrance to the cave temples and shrines. Batu Caves is a system of limestone cavities with the highest temple being built about 100m above ground level within it.

Entering the vaulted cave is like being transported into another world. It's simply breathtaking.

The rather steep stairs weren’t the only challenges I faced at Batu Caves. The other big headache was trying to get the exposure right due to the extreme lighting conditions within the cave.

With my half-past-six camera handling knowledge. It took me quite some time to get my settings right. Then a few steps in, my settings have to change again.

The caves have got potential for quite some nice shots because of the contrast created by Hinduism’s very colourful expressions against the stoic serenity of nature. But alas, I need to brush up on my photographic skills before being able to best capture that lively tranquility.

If I go again, I’ll need to acquire an external flash and bring my tripod along. But thinking about climbing those stairs with so many equipments… *shudder*

The main cave temple at the inner sanctum of Batu Caves. It looks surreal sitting under the natural skylight of the limestone cave.

Apart from technical and equipment inadequacies, time wasn’t on my side to experiment during this tour. We were given one hour at Batu Caves and if we didn’t report back to the coach on time, it will leave without us and we have to catch a cab to our next destination.

I think I was about a minute or two late and they weren’t kidding about leaving me behind. Thankfully, Yee Leong stopped the coach and I managed to get on. Thanks a lot buddy!

From one of nature’s wonders, we were transported to a wonder of man’s artistry in the form of elegant pewter wares. Our next stop was the Royal Selangor Visitor Centre. It’s about a 15-minutes ride from Batu Caves.

I find the location of the centre and factory somewhat peculiar. Out of what seemed like a largely residential estate stood the home of this iconic Malaysian export. The unsurpassed quality and aesthetic calibre of Royal Selangor branded pewter echoes far and wide. But where the swanky, ultra-hip centre is situated, one wouldn’t expect to find it within such a nondescript neighbourhood.

Royal Selangor Visitor Centre - Home of the largest tankard in the Guinness Book of Records.

Doesn't it look like we're entering some futuristic vehicle for space travel? But it is in fact a time machine that 'took' us back to the beginnings of pewtersmithing in Malaysia.

Royal Selangor was founded in 1885, a period where the tin mining industry was thriving in Malaysia. Since pewter contains about 85-99% tin (according to Wikipedia) alloyed with other metals, the adoption of this very malleable metal as the tin industry’s other sibling is only natural.

One of the most interesting artefacts at the centre’s Pewter Museum was the ancient tin currencies shaped like animals! And they weren’t small and handy change, no they weren’t, but could literally be used as assault weapons. I wonder how do the ancient people lug them around? I sure don’t want to be a rich man in those days!

I was expecting to get that 'factory smell' when enerting the production area but I was surprised to see how clean and speck-free the working area was. No weird smells at all.

We were shown the various stages in the making of a pewter cup. Apparently, pewter can keep hot drinks hot and cold drinks cold for a longer time.

Try your hands at making a pewter-ware the traditional way in the centre's School of Hard Knocks. For a fee, visitors can get a taste of what's it like to be a pewtersmith using traditional tools.

The tour lasted an hour I think. It’s too long in my opinion. I can’t help feeling that the extended stay was so that us tourists can find something to buy. I was browsing and re-browsing the showcase for so long after the heritage and factory tour, I almost whipped out my credit card to purchase some Lord of the Rings figurines. Thankfully I was able to resist their spells because I’m not a collector although they look great and were on discount.

As a whole, this part of the tour was pretty educational and interesting. The fine craftsmanship and details accorded the pewter products were very enticing to own a piece and they were priced within reach. However, I felt we could’ve accorded some of the time here to stay longer at Batu Caves. Then again, that’s just my preference. You cannot please everybody.

After Royal Selangor, we were brought to a photographic spot for the Petronas Twin Towers en route to lunch. I’ve seen and photographed the strapping skyscrapers on numerous occasions and in my view, much better vantage points so I didn’t go shutter crazy at where we were brought to.

We spent a few minutes to get some “I’ve been here” shots before proceeding to lunch. I was famished because I had a very light breakfast prior tour to avoid needing a place to ‘bake’ while on the road. It was a short drive to our lunch venue – Dorsett Regency Hotel.

The hotel’s visage was screaming for a makeover but the interior was cozy and comfortable. Too cozy perhaps. The dining tables were kinda small to sit four. Food-wise, the selection and taste got my thumbs up. Although the food portion was cozy like the tables, the spread was decent for such a petite buffet dining area.

There’s the usual cold dish section with boiled prawns and fresh oysters (although they barely refilled it after the first round), meats section, vegetable stir-frys, Western, Eastern, desserts, etc, but my favourite were the Thai Mango Salad and this do-it-yourself steamboat section.

The exterior of the hotel beguiles this quaint little buffet restaurant that is unpretentious and offers some pretty great tastes. My only groan is for it to please refill the prawns and oysters. After the opening presentation, those two items didn’t look like they ever got replenished. Erm… this is a buffet right?

Our last stop was the KL Tower, formally known as Manara Kuala Lumpur. It is a telecommunications tower built atop Bukit Nanas to improve the quality of telcomm and broadcasting transmission.

Needless to mention, we’re here to get a 360 all-round view of the KL skyline. The view alone is worth making the trip!

Completed in May 1996, the KL Tower was the tallest structure in the city standing at 421m before it was overtaken by the Petronas Twin Towers in 1998 with a height of 451.9m.

Elements of Islamic art and architectural flavour adorn the KL Tower. Look out, or should I say up, as you're entering the lift lobby to admire the Muqarnas-inspired ceiling design.

The dazzling glass ceiling at the centre of the lift lobby adds some star power to this Malaysian icon. The best way to photograph it is to set the camera on self-timer mode and place it on the floor to capture the widest angle possible.

On the Observation Deck, digital audio-visual players are issued and act as a personal guide to point out interesting sights and the different viewing angles.

A parrot is an unusual find at a modern tower but the inclusion of an Animal Zone on the ground level illustrates the developers' eco-mindfulness.

During the development of the tower, special care was taken to protect the forest reserve of Bukit Nanas. Apparently, a special retaining wall was constructed around a 100-year-old Jelutong tree at a cost of RM430,000 to preserve it. I wanted to look for the tree but the Animal Zone and its parrot distracted me. I welcomed the distraction. It’s nice to also admire the biological architecture of nature.

There’s no better way to conclude a visit to KL than a panoramic bird’s eye view of the bustling city. The cityscape must look even more stunning at night. And although I can’t see the estuary which KL got its name from from up at the Observation Deck, I understand now the name of my friend… ‘Kuala’ means the confluence or mouth of a river, and ‘Lumpur’ means muddy.

It was so named in 1857 by the Malay chieftain, Raja Abdullah, who was out looking for a new tin mine and came across this crossroad where the Klang and Gombak rivers met. Today, the confluence is no longer muddy but a paved intersection of two waterways that can be seen from the Sultan Abdul Samad Building I mentioned earlier.

Darren (jubilantly) : “There my friend, I know the origin of your name now.”

KL (pleased) : “Well done, Darren. I’m glad you took the time and effort. And I think climbing those 272 steps has shed some weight off you.”

Darren : “Hahaha… you’re always such a tease. But that’s what I like about you. I have to go now. I’m off to visit another long time friend of ours, Phuket.”

KL : “Take care my friend. Great to have you again and don’t let me wait another two years to see you. Bon voyage onboard Legend of the Seas and send my love to Phuket!”

Kuching : A Purrfect Getaway

20 – 23 May 2010. Kuching – its name is Malay for ‘cat’. But to me, it meant somewhere between the boondocks and where the Swamp Thing lives. That was until I started researching about the place and my recent trip there… it totally changed my mind! I guess no matter where we go, as long as the mind never ceases to explore and wonder, the world is our oyster. (Never quite understood that ‘world is your oyster’ idiom since an oyster is tightly closed and to become a pearl involves being trapped in it. So why is that synonymous with the freedom to achieve?!)

While there were quite some cats (real or objectified) in the city, Kuching got its name not because it was the birthplace of any exceptional feline feats but rather, from the longan fruit. A stream, Sungai Kuching (Kuching River), used to run through the city and had its origin from Bukit Mata Kuching (Cat’s Eye Hill). The hill was so named because of an abundance of the local fruit (mata kuching) on it; and due to the fruit’s semblance to a cat’s eye, with a black pit showing through its translucent peeled flesh like a pupil, hence the nickname. (To the Chinese, ‘longan’ is translated as dragon’s eye).

The river had since been filled up to make way for urban development but the name stuck. Today, the cat has become an affiliated identity that this biggest city in the East Malaysian state of Sarawak holds dear to. But apart from all the pussy puns you can make with this city, it is also known as the Land of the Hornbill and famous for being home to the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia. So what does Kuching has to offer?

KUCHING WATERFRONT

The most prominent area in the city is probably the 1km-long Kuching Waterfront on the south bank of the Sarawak River. One side of the waterway contains all the urban developments such as hotels, shopping centres, financial centres and residential districts, while the opposite bank offers a somewhat rustic back-to-kampong appeal with wooden houses and dense forestry.

You can commute between the two sides by taking one of the many sampans known as tambang along the river. It costs only RM0.50 one-way but check with the boatman for the time of the last service. If I’m not wrong, they stop operating around midnight.

We stayed at Tune Hotel Kuching, which is along the waterfront and right next to Hilton Hotel. Costing approximately S$28.00 a night, it is a choice accommodation considering the price and location. The rooms are clean and pleasant enough but expect only the very bare lodging essentials.

Along the waterfront, you can find some F&B tents but I doubt their integrity in hygiene. There’s really not much to do there except to take a leisurely stroll and enjoy the sunset, which can be pretty spectacular.

BAKO NATIONAL PARK
Day-tour Price : RM160.00 (originally RM190.00)
Duration : 10:00am – 4:00pm

Any trip to Kuching would not be complete without a visit to one of its many natural attractions. If you’re one who loves nature and adventure, this place will have you doing Tarzan’s orh-eee-orh in no time! There’re more than a dozen national parks in Sarawak and Bako is probably the most popular and accessible from Kuching.

Initially, we planned to take a half-day tour to see the Rafflesia flower at Gunung Gading National Park but there were none in bloom during our stay there. It is a matter of luck to see these rare flowers, especially the really huge ones that could measure up to 1m in diameter. A Rafflesia’s bloom lasts between 5 – 7 days and the natives pluck the flowers for medicinal uses so there’s the added race of getting to the stinky blossoms before they do. Always check with the local agents on your chances of seeing a Rafflesia booking the tour.

There’re quite a few shops along the waterfront that offer day-tour packages. You can choose from half and full day tours around the city, to forest safaris that last several days. We booked our tour with an agent located within Hilton Hotel. Since the Rafflesia was not in bloom, we decided on Bako National Park instead. The original price was RM190.00 but the agent said there’s a discount on that day and we paid RM160.00 per person. Maybe that’s just a ploy to get us to go as we were hesitating upon finding out that our original plan to see the Rafflesia had to be changed.

Moreover, he had 3 other tourists booked for the Bako tour so having the 2 of us join would be just the perfect group size. At any rate, it’s a win-win situation but it showed that the listed prices of the tours may be negotiable.

The package includes a 2-way land transfer, 2-way boat trip, and a park guide. Lunch was not included. If you do not take a tour package and decide to charter a boat (that can hold up to 6 tourists) at the jetty itself, it costs RM93.00. I don’t think that price includes a park guide.

A 40 minutes minivan ride took us from the city centre to a small jetty. Then we boarded a speedboat and it’s another 30 minutes to reach Bako National Park. During the water taxi, the silhouettes of giant mountain beckons and it’s really awesome for a city boy like me.

Bako is a huge park with various trails with varying levels of difficulties and length. There’s accommodation in the park for those who plan to stay longer. We were first brought on an easy trail with paved roads and I expressed my disappointment to Siow Har that there’s no ‘feel’ in a trek like this. That was until we were brought on a real forest trail…

At the park, we were introduced to various species of flora and fauna with explanations on their usefulness. We saw rattans growing in the wild and a thorny palm whose spikes are used as blow darts by native hunters. The spikes were really sharp! But the most interesting plant was the Tongkat Ali – the Malay folk medicine equivalent of Viagra.

A small segment of Tongkat Ali sells for a high price so it’s important to verify the authenticity of the plant. There’re 3 confirmation tests that can be done with its leaf :

1) Roll its leaf with your fingers – real Tonkgat Ali’s leaf won’t break
2) Slowly tear the leaf – the ‘wound’ should present a feathery texture
3) Taste the leaf sap – it is very, very bitter

We also saw quite some wild animals with our closest encounter with danger coming from a poisonous green snake perfectly camouflaged on a small shrub at shin height. I would not have seen it if not for the guide pointing out to us. And there was also a termite’s nest the size of a bowling ball hanging precariously on a thin stem right next to a forest path. I would hate to walk into one of those!

That’s why for the uninitiated, it is useful to have a guide and always stay on the designated paths. I was told that even very experienced guides can get lost in the Bako forest. There was a recent case during my visit but thankfully he made it out after several days. But the biggest use of a guide was that he knew the hotspots to see the Proboscis Monkeys. Catching a glimpse of these monkeys in their natural habitat is the key attraction of Bako.

Nicknamed the Dutchman Monkey for the locals observed a similarity between the two primates, the Proboscis Monkey is listed as an endangered species. There’re only about 250 of them in the whole of Bako National Park now. We managed to see quite a few of them during our visit so that’s an accomplishment.

Another rare meeting was seeing a National Geographic lensman at work! For someone who’s just started learning about photography, meeting a Nat Geo photographer was like seeing an idol! His name was Mr Klum and he’s filming a documentary about the park’s wildlife. He’ll be coming to Singapore to give a talk about rainforests in Asia at the Vivocity Nat Geo store in September 2010. Maybe I should print out the photo of him and ask for an autograph like a fan would. Haha…

After the paved trail to see the Proboscis Monkey, we embarked on the forest trek and it’s really quite an experience. The path was formed by countless roots compacted together and some parts required a little climbing. It was really no fun dangling a heavy DSLR around our necks while negotiating the roots and stone trail. And the stairs found on the trail were nothing more than flimsy wooden constructs.

Along the way, the guide pointed out various trees and plants and how to use them. He showed us how to extract a vine from a creeper and make it into rope and many other lessons which I missed because I was busy clicking away. Must really learn to shoot faster.

After trekking 700m in about 1.5 hours, we finally reached one of the many beaches on Bako. Nothing spectacular about the beach except for the presence of cliffs embracing it. From here, we have 2 choices – take the trek back to our starting point, or take the speedboat back (15 mins) for an addition RM40.00 per boat. We shared the speedboat fee. As part of the journey back, we were brought to see some amazing rock formations along the coastal area of the park. The most iconic formation would be the statuesque profile of a boulder that resembled a cobra rising out of the sea.

By the end of the Bako day trip, Siow Har and I got really burnt so remember to bring sunblock. Wear insect repellent too and have on comfortable shoes for trekking (but bring along slippers). Bring water to keep yourself constantly hydrated during the treks and be prepared to get sweat-soaked!

Oh, and beware of quick-handed monkeys near the canteen area. They’ll snatch food from you. Siow Har was eating a muffin in the canteen when a monkey climbed onto the table and snatched it from her at lightning speed! Another snatched her can of drinks. So keep a watchful eye and secure all your valuables such as jewelry and camera.

SARAWAK CULTURAL VILLAGE
Entrance Fee : RM60.00 for foreigners; RM25.00 for Sarawakians
Opening Hours : 9:00am – 5:15pm daily
Cultural Showtimes : 11:30am – 12:15pm; 4:00pm – 4:45pm

Sitting at the foot of the majestic Mount Santubong, the Sarawak Cultural Village is a half-hour drive from the city centre (and you’ll pass by Damai Beach which is really close by). There’re day tours but our very kind Kuching friends, Justin and Elizabeth, drove us there. Their immaculate hospitality exemplifies what we’re about to experience at the Cultural Village soon… a sort of communal kampong spirit where people look out for each other without asking for benefits.

Six weeks before my trip to Kuching, I posted on my Facebook status of my intention to plan a trip there. Justin replied to offer help with my itinerary. Two weeks later, he came to Singapore for a work trip and Siow Har and I met up with him very briefly (just to make sure neither party was Mas Selamat). After that, we exchanged a few emails, he made some changes to our self-planned itinerary, and the 2 of us landed in Kuching. Throughout our 4D3N stay, Justin chauffeured us around, showed us many local sights, and took really great care of us even though we’ve only met once!

Justin and his friends were the main reasons the Kuching trip was so enjoyable. The city itself doesn’t have much to offer actually, but their company made up for the vast shortfall. And the fun we had at the Cultural Village was testament that it is not where you go, but who you go with that truly mattered.

That, and of course Justin got us a RM20.00 off the entrance fee due to his connection with friends in the Kuching tourism industry. So we paid RM40.00 each to see a collection of the different dwellings that the native Borneo tribes live in. There’re 7 major racial groups in total – Bidayuh, Iban, Penan, Orang Ulu, Melanau, Malay, and Chinese. A stone sculpture representing the 7 tribes unified on 1 land welcomes visitors at the entrance to the theme park.

An outdoor museum of the different architectural styles unique to each tribe, the village features life-size replicas of these huts and longhouses complete with artifacts and furnishings. The foreigner visitors were given a green ‘passport’ to collect stamps from each tribe they visit. By the time I completed my stamp collection, my t-shirt was stamped onto my body. It’s really hot so be prepared to be sweat-drenched.

There’re are 2 sessions of cultural show daily at 11:30 am and 4:00 pm. You get the drift with cultural performances so I won’t into details about their song and dance, but there’s one performance that’s notable – a guy picking up a block of wood with just his teeth! No tongue-hockey for him.

In my opinion, amongst all the native dwellings, I like the one that houses the performance theatre best. The reason? It’s air-conditioned.

Apart from watching the cultural show and experiencing the living conditions, you can also buy some of the traditional food being made on the spot with charcoal stoves. In one of the huts, you can also test how good a job you fare at blowing darts. I sucked (no pun intended) at it.

Probably the most bizarre exhibit here would be the smoked human heads. Most of the tribes were headhunters and warriors kept the decapitated heads of their enemies as a trophy.

While we were there, the village was making preparations to host the Rainforest World Music Festival which happens in July. As a whole, the Sarawak Cultural Village makes for an interesting half-day visit if not to see the whimsical folk art and tribal lifestyle, then it’s for some good photo opportunities.

SARAWAK MUSEUM
Entrance Fee : Free
Opening Hours : 9:00am – 4:30pm daily

The oldest museum in Borneo, the Sarawak Museum is also reputed to hold one of the best collections in Southeast Asia. The first floor of the museum houses the natural history (lots of birds, fish, mammals, geological artifacts) while the second level is home to ethnological relics of Borneo’s indigenous tribes. A gallery across the museum houses some exhibits of modern folk art while a botanical garden and war memorial can also be found in the area.

The museum is about a 20 minutes stroll from the Kuching Waterfront and pretty prominent. Just ask for directions along the way.

As we visited the museums just hours before our flight back to Singapore, we didn’t spend very much time there. Besides, photography was not allowed in the museum so it was just browse and go.

Some of the interesting things I saw included the skull of a man-eating crocodile, bones of whales, and a burial totem – where the indigenous people put their dead in jars and recess them into the cavity of a tall wooden column.

The museum really holds a strict code on its no-photography rule. I was taking some photos when the curator stopped me. Then he hung around our group the whole time. I don’t understand why photography is not allowed here but that ensured we spent no time in getting out quickly.

CHINA-MALAYSIA FRIENDSHIP GARDEN
Entrance Fee : Free
Opening Hours : All day

Built in 2004 to commemorate 30 years of diplomatic ties between China and Malaysia, this outdoor garden is unofficially known as the Zheng He Garden to the locals. With the presence of a China Embassy in Kuching, you can guess that the Chinese population there must be pretty sizeable.

Justin drove us there so I have no idea about its position but it must’ve not been very far off from the city centre and it seems to be nestled within a residential area. I think it is one of the nicest gardens in Malaysia.

There’re 2 entrances to the park – one side with a Sarawakian influence, the other in ornate Chinese style. Amongst pagodas, rock gardens, and weeping willows over a pond are huts of indigenous Sarawakian fashion; and the friendship between the 2 countries is cleverly represented by a 20-foot statue of the Admiral Zheng He facing a fountain with 7 pillars representing the 7 major ethnic groups of Sarawak.

Admiral Zheng He was credited for being China’s ambassador during the 15th century to extend the dynasty’s influence and build relations with many countries in the Indian Ocean basin. Born into a Muslim family, he was made a eunuch at age 11 and given the name, San Bao (meaning Three Treasures).

In his lifetime, Zheng He led several voyages and expeditions to Southeast Asia, South Asia and East Africa, collectively known as the travels of Eunuch Sanbao to the Western Ocean. It is also believed that the admiral gave the hand in marriage of Princess Hang Li Po to a Malaccan Sultan, which greatly spurred the rise of the Peranakan culture (more info can be found in my earlier blog on Malacca).

There’s no better place for 1 Singaporean and 2 Malaysians to celebrate their friendship than here! But we saw this poor, lonely, wounded dog taking refuge at the park. Too bad I don’t have anything for it to eat or drink. Sigh… see already heart pain!

There used to be a lot of kois in the manmade pond but they died overnight due to a fault in the filtration system about 2 years ago. They’ve never been replaced. The quaint Chinese building used to be a teahouse for dim sum but due to its operations polluting the surrounding environment, it was closed down. What a pity.

SUNDAY MARKET & OTHER SIGHTS

By Justin’s recommendation, we dropped by the local Sunday Market for a look. It is open in the late afternoon of every Saturday till Sunday. Since we didn’t have any chance to shop, we thought we’d nab some bargains here. In accordance with the image of weekend markets, things here are supposed to be cheaper right? Wrong!

I bought some fridge magnets at RM10.00 for 4 pieces but at the row of souvenir shophouses along the waterfront, I could get 5 pieces for the same price. The designs are the same and there’s more variety to choose from.

I also bought a bottle of pepper powder (Sarawak is famous for its pepper) at RM2.00. The stall lady told me it’s a discount as the original price was RM2.50. But at those souvenir shops, the same size bottles, although different brands, were sold at RM2.00 each without discount.

Do I sound like a petty price haggler! Ha. My point is just to show that the general low-price rule of local markets does not apply here. The market spanned a few streets but the stalls sold mostly perishables such as fruits, vegetables, seafood and meats. It is more of a wet market for locals to shop than meant for tourists.

I was told I could find fresh grubs to try but I didn’t see any either. All I saw were the meal worms meant for pets. So unless you just want to go for a feel of it, give it a miss even though it’s located not far from the city centre. A less than 10 minutes cab ride there cost us RM10.00. (The cabs don’t run by meter so you have to confirm a price before getting on.) The place was also pretty stuffy so go during sundown. But the problem with that is, most of the stalls were poorly lit.

How can a visit to cat city without photos of cats?! Here’re 2 of the famous cat statues in Kuching. The coupled felines can be found at a roundabout junction that marks the city centre, while the white cat stands in front of the gate to Chinatown. The white cat changes costumes with each festive season. Here, it is wearing traditional garb to herald the upcoming Gawai Festival. The 2 set of statues are within walking distance.

We also passed by a pretty interesting and iconic building in Kuching, the Boulevard Bandaraya Kuching Selatan. From the Google map, you can see it protruding like a blue nipple!

TASTES OF KUCHING

I’m glad you’ve made it this far. You’ve expended much energy ‘visiting’ the sights of Kuching with me, you must be hungry. Here’s a binary feast on some of the local favourites for you…

1) Kolo Mee – Supposedly a culinary signature of Kuching. It is somewhat like wanton noodles without the char siew and dumplings but with prawns, pork and some other condiments. Nothing very unique. I preferred the bak chor mee in Singapore.

2) Kuching Laksa – It tastes like a watered down version of curry mee. Again, not a big draw for me as I prefer the heavier broth of Nongya laksa.

3) Hinghwa Pa Mee – Hinghwa is my dialect group and it’s rare in Singapore to find the traditional pa mee at local hawker centres or foodcourts. Every CNY, my recently deceased Ah Ma will cook this dish. So when I had it in Kuching, I was expecting ang pows!

This is by far my favourite. Not because it slurps from my childhood, but because the soup was light yet flavourful, and the noodle was soft but not gooey. But the key difference between this version and the home-cooked one is this… my Ah Ma fried the seaweed till it’s crispy. That’s still the bestest!

4) Mussel Cracker Omelet –Tried a version of Kuching’s or-jian (oyster omelet) made with mussels. The presentation was pretty interesting as the egg was made into a cracker bowl with the shellfish stuck to it. If only it tasted as interesting as it looked. The egg lost its flavour and the mussels were too cooked.

5) Stir-Fried Fern Shoots – Don’t remember what the name of the fern is, but it’s a species native to Sarawak so you probably can’t find the dish elsewhere. Its availability is also seasonal and unpredictable coz it is harvested in the wild. The plant will only grow in clean, uncontaminated soil. Texture-wise, it would be the offsrping when a stalk of watercress married a ladyfinger. Me likey!

6) Sweet-Sour Mutton Ribs – Taste just like the 红烧排骨 (Sweet-Sour Pork Ribs) in Singapore except with mutton ribs. This dish was grazed my tongue bewetifully and had me going baack for more even though it’s quite fatty.

7) Claypot Braised Fishhead – Not sure how to describe its taste because it was rather forgettable. All I remembered was that a thick layer of oil floats on the dish. Elizabeth said it’s the omega oil from the fishhead but I doubt it. This little amount of fish can’t produce that quantity of oil.

The fishhead had been deep-fried before braising so I think the oil was from the frying and not the fish. When something is deep-fried and cooked again later in water, the trapped oil will be leeched out and sits as a layer above the sauce.

We had items 1-3 at a local coffeeshop that was packed for breakfast, items 4-6 at a popular roof-top Halal seafood hawker centre located at the city centre (near the famous cat statues), and item 7 at this coffeeshop opposite a clan temple (just behind the row of conserved waterfront shophouses selling souvenirs).

9-LIVES

After a full dinner, it’s time to check out the nightlife in Kuching! In our 3 nights there, we visited some cafes with distinctive characters, a karaoke near our hotel, and the clubbing district referred to as Pavilion.

Night 1 – Q-Bar Karaoke

Not quite tired on our first night there, we went to a karaoke bar near our hotel to sort of celebrate my birthday at around 12:45am. There wasn’t a crowd that Thursday night so the hearing damage I caused was thankfully limited. It’s an open karaoke (no rooms) and a bottle of beer here cost RM10.00.

Most of the patrons sang Malay songs but it did have a selection of Chinese, Cantonese and Hokkien songs. However, you have to know how to write the song titles and artistes in Chinese as there’s no book to flip or electronic selection system. We made friends with an uncle at the next table and he turned out to be an employee of TM Asia Life Malaysia! What a surprise! I’m an insurance agent with TM Asia Life Singapore. So we bonded easily and had a few round of drinks.

Night 2 – Café Hopping

The second night, Justin showed us some cafes / bistros with thematic decors. There was The Junk with its conglomeration of eclectic antiques, the chic and relaxing Living Room, and the one we eventually settled for, Bla Bla Bla.

The place is one of those new age fusion restaurants with a touch of resort zen (the water feature, Buddha head, bamboo ensemble). Didn’t try the food there but had a glass of house wine. They serve the Lindeman’s chardonnay and it cost RM23.00 per glass.

Justin and his friends bought a slice of cake and sang me a birthday song there. Super touched since that night was the first time I met many of them. We called it a night at about 11:00pm but the glass of wine got me going. So I went to a local coffeeshop and bought 2 cans of 500ml Stella Atois. Each can cost only RM4.00!! By the way, 7-Elevens there don’t sell alcohol.

Night 3 – Clubbing District

Our last night there, we decided to go all out and visited the clubbing district. It’s really amazing how many danceclubs, karaokes and bars fit into such a small area of 2-storied shophouses. Most of the clubs there don’t charge entrance and beers cost RM10.00 a bottle.

After browsing through a few clubs there, we settled on Pavilion. It had a good crowd although the music can be vastly improved. The club plays trance and house music, which I love, but the selection of songs had too much undulating moods that didn’t lift it to the trance high typical in such clubs. Either the DJ wasn’t skillful enough, or I was too sober. I think it’s the latter.

So after leaving the club at 1:45am, Siow Har and I bought another 2 cans of Stella Atois, headed down to the waterfront, and lit the sparklers she brought from Singapore. Don’t ask me why she brought sparklers there but it was a great way to mark the end of a spectacular trip!

For more photos from the trip, please visit my album Kuching (20-23 May 2010).

Kota Tinggi – 2nd Click Clique Adventure

8 – 9 May 2010. Took a weekend trip to Kota Tinggi’s waterfall in time to cool off from the recent heatwave. Is it me or is the weather really climbing up the thermometer? I don’t remember May being so bitingly hot in the past…

But the weather wasn’t the only bother that got me boiling. Arranging this trip was a whole lot of chasing to the point where I almost wanted to give up. First of all, it was very hard to get the commitment from our driver to go. He was always ‘maybe’, ‘could be’, ‘have to make arrangements’, but never confirmed in the 2 months that the trip idea was discussed.

The driver (and his car) was the key to the trip and it was difficult to plan with ambiguity. If it was a last minute trip, I can understand the problem to commit. Then just say ‘no’. But if it’s planned 2 months in advance, there’s ample time to make any necessary arrangements to make the trip happen. Else, just a simple ‘no’ is welcomed rather than to leave me hanging. I guess when most people make their decisions, they forget that they’re a part of the decision-making process of others. It’s not a nice feeling having to give up another activity to make this trip happen while the other travelers are perpetual ‘Shouldbedoos’ (think Scooby Doo).

Decisive by nature, I have a problem empathizing with wishy-washy characters. If you can, say ‘yes’ and make any upcoming plans around this commitment; if you can’t, say ‘no’ and allow others plan ahead. If you’re not sure, tell me by when you can give a confirmed answer and give it. Sometimes I wonder if indecisiveness is a tactic to make ourselves feel important.

The other challenge was also to toe the soured relationships between some in the group. Based on my understanding from both sides, I could see that intentions were good, rationales were valid, but the execution was flawed and lots of miscommunication in-between. However, I’m so very glad that this trip worked out well and things were the way they were before.

Sometimes we get in trouble with people because of our words or actions intentionally or unknowingly, or we may be troubled because we hold on to being done wrong. With the flowing of a river or a waterfall, the same water will not pass by twice, so I’m glad bygones can be bygone and whatever that stole our joy was allowed to flow away and letting the waters put out all fires of fury…

ABOUT KOTA TINGGI

Kota Tinggi is a small town in Johor Bahru, Malaysia, well-known for its 34m cascading waterfall from the 634m Gunung Muntahak Mountain. The fall creates refreshing pools ideal for cooling off in the afternoon heat. The waterfall is also known as the Lombong Waterfall.

I’ve been there once a long time ago and had plain forgotten what it’s like so this trip felt virginal. The first thing that struck me was how murky and brown the water looked. Should be clean but definitely not crystal clear. And it was very chilly despite the morning heat. The difference in water temperature was really apparent when I took a dip in the resort’s swimming pool after soaking in the waterfall. The pool’s water was warm and felt light compared to the cold and heavy fall waters. However, I felt much more refreshed and light after a dip in Mother Nature’s saliva.

The Kota Tinggi town itself is rather small with its town centre and major developments, such as a very modest shopping centre and retail complexes, situated along a river. The waterfall is situated about a 15 minutes drive from the center. We drove to Kota Tinggi from Singapore and it took us about 1 hr 30 mins via the Tuas Link. Just take the highway and after clearing about 2 tolls (or 3?), you’ll see directional signs that point you to Kota Tinggi.

You’ll cross a bridge over a river when you enter into the town and along the banks is where most of the developments are including the boarding site for the Firefly Tour. Apart from the waterfall and Firefly Tour, there’s really very little else to do at Kota Tinggi. As part of our exploration, we drove up to the Desaru Fruit Farm and Desaru beach. We also had the Kota Tinggi Crocodile Farm in our itinerary but gave it a miss due to lack of time.

KOTA TINGGI WATERFALL RESORT
Weekend Hotel Room rate : RM150.00
Weekend Chalet rate : RM180.00

Around the vicinity of the waterfall, there’re 2 accommodation choices – Kota Rainforest Resort and Kota Tinggi Waterfalls Resort. Kota Rainforest Resort is about a 5 minutes drive to the waterfall, more expensive of the two, but looked in better condition and newer. Kota Tinggi Waterfalls Resort is right where the waterfall is located but has no ‘wow’ factor.

We stayed at the Waterfalls Resort due to its proximity to the natural pool. To get there, follow the brown signs that say ‘Air Terjun’. That means water (‘air’) fall (‘terjun’) in Malay. We missed the turn into the resort initially because we were looking for English signs that said ‘waterfall’. Well, they were right before our eyes the whole time but we don’t read Malay! The authorities should really include an English translation in the signs.

The resort is surrounded by forested areas and provides a rustic sanctuary embraced by nature. Facilities include air-conditioning, fan, TV, and fridge. There’s also a restaurant while food tents line the bank of the rock pool. But on hindsight, maybe we should’ve tried the Rainforest Resort instead because the room condition at the Waterfalls Resort was rather appalling. One of the room’s air-con didn’t work, I found gecko shit on the sheets, and the TV was the size for ants. Then again, maybe the other resort isn’t any better.

Both resorts do not have online booking facilities. I had to email them to check rates and availability. The Waterfalls Resort is represented by Impressions (impressions@impressions.com.my) and I was required to TT the full amount of the lodging price to secure my reservation. Since it was such a hassle, we decided to just walk in and book 2 chalets. There’s no difference in rates for walk in or email booking and a RM200 deposit is required. Towels and remote control for the TV were issued at the reception counter and you must bring those items back to the reception for check-out.

The saving grace was of course its closeness to the waterfall. There’re 2 parts to the Kota Tinggi fall that are accessible. The lower part consists of a section of the natural fall with a dammed up pool with slides, while an upper part was kept pretty much natural. There’s a stairway by the side of the lower fall that leads to the upper fall. It takes about 15 minutes of easy trekking.

I preferred the upper part because there were less people and the feeling of swimming in a natural pool surrounded by a forest was just awesome! But be prepared to be nibbled on by fish in the rock pool much like those fish spas. They were not painful, more ticklish… or maybe because I have thick skin. Haha.

But I thoroughly enjoyed dipping in both the upper and lower falls. Totally refreshing and inspiring to think that the waters had gushed relentlessly and with such velocity over so many years… much like how youth slides from us with such vigour. Every droplet represented a second and how I will never get back the time which has flowed.

DESARU FRUIT FARM & BEACH

Our self-planned itinerary included a visit to the Desaru Fruit Farm. Located 39km from Kota Tinggi, it took us roughly 30 minutes to drive there. I read that many different varieties of tropical fruits can be found in the farm and there’s even a small petting zoo and aviary. A guide will take you around while giving you a commentary on the plants either on a bull cart or your car.

But when we got there, no one greeted us or showed us where to go for the guided tour. We planned to have lunch there too but it didn’t seem like the cafeteria as operating and a set meal costs RM45! So after wandering around for 10 minutes without seeing anything of interest, we left.

We had lunch at a nearby food stop where everything was fried with too much oil and headed for Desaru Beach. From the roadside hawkers, it was another 15 minutes drive. Again, I’ve been to Desaru eons ago. I think I was 15 years old when I made the trip with my secondary schoolmates. I remembered the beach was white and powdery, and the waves were huge. It’s impossible to swim in that tidal assault so I never understood why people want to go there from then on. Desaru became a joke of a vacation destination for me and never went back.

How very different it was this time round. The beach was still desirable, but the sea was a calm inviting blue! How I wished I could plunge in but alas, this wasn’t planned for so none of us came prepared to frolic in Poseidon’s embrace. Apparently, the mood of the waves has seasons. So I guess May is when it is on Xanax.

Like a diabetic kid in a candy store, the only way to release that pent-up enthusiasm was to find a replacement. So we decided to create our own fun by taking jump shots. With the beautiful sky and turquoise ocean as our backdrop, our frogging moments turned out really great. I love those photos.

FIREFLY TOUR
Touring hours : 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm
Tour ticket : RM20.00

One of the must-dos at Kota Tinggi is the Firefly Trip. After taking the cruise, we left in awe of the magical presence of nature. Like Christmas trees flickering by the water’s edge, the visual symphony was simply spectacular.

Found in the berembang trees that line the banks of the Johor River, fireflies are actually beetles and spend 9 months as a glowworm (larvae state) before becoming an adult. The lifespan of an adult firefly is 2 weeks with the sole purpose to mate. Different species emit a different pattern of light to attract its own kind.

We bought our trip tickets (RM20.00) from the resort hotel although you can also buy it on the spot (don’t know if it is the same price). There was no pick up from our resort or map given so we had to make our own way there. The boarding place is located along the river where the town centre is. When you drive into Kota Tinggi, you’ll cross a bridge and the firefly tour jetty is located not far from it. If you lose your way, just ask the locals for directions.

The tour lasts 45 minutes and it is best to go for the 8pm slot as that’s when the sky is dark enough. The best time to see the fireflies is during moonless nights. If it rained during the day, you’ll be rewarded with a bumper view of the flies. It didn’t rain during our visit so what we saw was pretty sparse but magical nonetheless. Also, it was impossible to take photos of the fireflies because it’s too dark. So forget about photographing and etch the image in your head.

THE FOOD

We didn’t explore much of the gastro-offerings of Kota Tinggi but we found this restaurant called New Mui Tou that’s affordable and good enough. It is along one of the streets near the Firefly Trip and opposite Hotel Seri Kota. We had dinner there and went back again for lunch.

Dinner : Chili Crabs (though they looked more like pubic lice), Cereal Prawns (so-so), Hot Plate Tofu (yumz!), Wild Boar with Ginger and Onions (super yumz!), Fried Potato Leaves, 5 Man Tous, 1 bowl of rice, creackers, tea, and 2 bottles of Heineken.
Total Bill : S$50.00

Lunch : Fish Meat Steamboat (so-so), Sambal Squid (yumz!), Wild Boar with Ginger and Onions, Sweet and Sour Pork, Stir-Fried Vegetables, Fried Noodles, 1 bowl of rice, crackers, and 5 drinks.
Total Bill : RM87.80 (S$37.80)

OTHER DISCOVERIES

After dinner and some shopping at the riverine pasar malam, when were wondering what to do and found this karaoke, Big Box. It was newly opened so the place was nice and clean, the karaoke system works superbly, and the drinks were really cheap.

A bucket of 4 bottles of Tiger beer costs RM38.00 and a cup of honey lemon tea only RM3.00! The room charge was RM25.00 per hour. I tortured my friends with my singing till 2am.

And we woke up at 6:30am the next morning to shoot sunrise. We don’t know of any place to shoot so we just drove out to a field about 5 minutes from the entrance of our resort hotel. Nothing really much to shoot and by then, the sun was too bright to be photographed well.

We left Kota Tinggi totally tired. Although it was a small town, we managed to max out our 2 days 1 night there. Even though I encountered some frustrations organising this trip, the company quickly dissolved the stains and the waterfall washed the black away. Don’t waste time holding on to bad times.

For more photos from the trip, please visit my album Kota Tingi : 2nd Click Clique Adventure.

Pengerang by Accident

I’ve always admired the beauty of peacocks and had encountered quite a few throughout the years. Their glistening green feathers with turquiose hues never cease to captivate me. But I’ve never seen one of them opening up its tail feather in full glory.

Likewise, many a times when we travel, we may see the beauty of sights, perhaps finding a stalk of the tail feathers along the way. But on those very few rare occasions, we experience the spectacular of an opened peacock fan. An encounter like this almost always happened by accident.

This trip to Sungai Rengit, Pengerang was one of those moments. Although the accident was terribly regrettable, I saw my perfect peacock. While Pengerang has nothing much to offer in terms of sights or even qualify as a mediocre tourist destination, the warmth and helpfulness of its people made the trouble to get there all worth it. More than just delicious seafood at bargain prices and miles of natural-scape, have a sampling too of the local hospitality. I have a feeling you’ll leave fuller than the harvest of the sea.

PENGERANG FACTS

• Pengerang is a seaside area by the southeastern tip of Johor with a population of about 20,000. Sungai Rengit is its main town located at the fourth bay (四湾).

• Sungai Rengit is popular for its seafood, which is much cheaper than Singapore or Johor Bahru.

• Things to do there besides cholesterol-chugging include a visit to a World War 2 fort, Ostrich Farm, and Fruit Farm.

• Many long-distance cycling enthusiasts start their journey to Desaru here because of the straight open roads and lesser traffic.

GETTING THERE & BACK

From Singapore, you can drive (approximately 2 hours) or take a bumboat at Changi Point Ferry Terminal to Tg Pengelih, Pengerang’s ferry terminal. Bumboat ride takes 1 hour and costs S$9.00 per person. Additional S$2.00 is charged per bicycle to ferry it across.

Daily operating hours : 7:00 am – 7:00 pm. There’s no fixed departure schedule. Each boat will only depart once there are 12 passengers. So there could be some waiting during off-peak periods. If you can assemble a group of 12, you can charter a whole boat.

Avoid going to Pengerang during Qing Ming season and Chinese New Year as there’ll be hordes of people. No problem in getting enough passengers, but no boats. Our trip coincided with Qing Ming and we waited almost 4 hours (8:00 am – 11:48 am) to board. It was pretty chaotic because there were no clear signs or system to indicate which boat you are supposed to take or any indication of waiting time. You have to find out your boat queue number at the counter and listen out for it to be called when your boat is available.

It works the same coming back from Tg Pengelih. Boat ride costs MYR15.00, operating hours from 7:00 am – 4:00 pm. Be there by 3:00pm to avoid missing the last boat. All fares are collected onboard, passport is a must.

GETTING AROUND

Taxis are available at MYR5.00 per person to Sungai Rengit. The taxis will leave when there’re 4 passengers, or you can charter the whole car for MYR20.00. The ride is about 20 mins. You can also negotiate with the driver to bring you to Ostrich Farm, Fruit Farm, etc and back to Tg Pengelih ferry terminal. Rates vary according to where you want to go. A round trip from ferry terminal to Fruit Farm costs MYR150.00.

You can also rent a bicycle at one of the shops around Changi Point Hawker Centre and cycle from Tg Pengelih to Sungai Rengit. That’s about 20 km or roughly 1.5 hours of leisure cycling. There are no bicycle rentals around Tg Pengelih ferry terminal so rent from Changi if you intend to cycle to Sungai Rengit. Bicycle rentals are available in Sungai Rengit for MYR15.00 per day. We rented our bicycles from this shop behind Hiap Hwa Hotel. The bikes were in reasonable conditions.

ACCOMODATION

There are quite a few hotels in Sungai Rengit but don’t expect to see stars. They’re basic lodgings without frills, and mere minutes from each other on foot. We stayed Hiap Hwa Hotel although on hindsight, we should’ve gone with our original plan to stay at Tai Hoe Hotel because it has a provision shop below it, and located just opposite the taxi station. Then again, the town is very small so it doesn’t really matter where you stay.

Hiap Hwa Hotel is decent and clean although the rooms have the smell of cigarette smoke. I booked the MYR68.00 room via email but when we checked out, we were charged MYR88.00. The reason given was that we stayed during a public holiday (we checked-in on 2 Apr 2010, Good Friday). This wasn’t communicated to me in the email to confirm my reservation. Good Friday is a holiday in Singapore, but not in Malaysia.

I felt somewhat cheated. And I had to transfer S$30.00 to their representative’s POSB bank account as a refundable deposit to seal my booking. This was the first time I had to do something like that. It’s like paying before you consumed the service and the receptionist wasn’t conversant in English.

I changed our accommodation plans because I read from bloggers that it is a newer hotel compared to the rest. At five storeys, the hotel is easily the tallest building in town but there’re no elevators so we had to climb four levels to our rooms. Siow Har had her room changed to the first level after her accident (more on it later). We were allowed to park our bicycles in the hotel’s premises.

SEAFOOD SO GOOD?

Feasting on fresh, succulent baby lobsters on a pauper’s paycheck is the sole reason many Singaporeans come to Sungai Rengit. The few recommended restaurants are Si Wan Good Luck Seafood Restaurant, Crystal Jade Seafood Restaurant, and Jade Garden Seafood Restaurant. I had planned to try all restaurants during our 2D1N stay but our seafood expedition was cut short by the accident. We only managed to try Si Wan Good Luck Seafood Restaurant. It was full house when we got there… so the verdict?

Average. We had three Butter Baby Lobsters, Cereal Prawns, Stir-fried Chye Sim, and Hotplate Oyster Omelette. The bill came up to MYR152.90 (S$65.10) including two bowls of rice, three fresh coconuts, and a bottle of beer. That’s very cheap by Singapore standards. But of course, ‘restaurants’ there are more like non air-conditioned zi-char eateries in Singapore.

Taste-wise, the lobsters well deserved their repute. Though crusted and deep-fried, the meat was juicy and tender; it felt as though Hai Loong Wang was having a party in my mouth. But the marine celebration ends there. The Cereal Prawn was passable and felt patchwork. There were two halves of a really big prawn and the rest were much smaller prawns. I didn’t get to try the big prawn but the small prawns weren’t fresh. The shells were thin and stuck to the flesh, and the heads had fallen off in the plate.

The vegetable dish was stir-fried in garlic and ginger strips, but although fresh-tasting, had no boomz factor. The Oyster Omelette was the biggest letdown. I’ve seen snort bigger than the oyster bulbs they served. And the taste was Alice in Wonderland… you chew the movie for almost two hours and wonder when is it going to get exciting. That dish was so bland, dogs wouldn’t touch it.

Hopefully the other restaurants fare better. If I go back again, I’ll try the crayfish and pepper crabs I missed this time round.

THE ROAD TO UNWIND

The best thing to do in Sungai Rengit is to unwind because there’s simply nothing to do. No big shopping complexes, no fanciful tourist attractions, no nightlife. It’s just you and the open roads flanked by coconut trees towering above kampong houses. I had it in my itinerary to cycle to the Fruit Farm but because we were very much delayed in our arrival time, we visited only the Ostrich Farm. It was only about a half-hour ride from town and the many huge signs made it easy to find (cycling to the Fruit Farm would take about two hours at a leisurely pace).

Along the way, we stopped by many open fields and even a red rock quarry to take home some rustic memories. So used am I to my DSLR that I felt handicapped using a compact camera during the excursion. What’s great shooting here was the wide natural landscapes and dramatic cloud formations floating on an endless blue.

At an entrance fee of MYR12.00 per adult, the Ostrich Farm provided some amusements and learning points about these big birds. Here’re some info about the farm and ostriches :

• The farm is owned by a Singaporean ex-pilot. Most of the ostriches here are reared for their meat. Their only meat area is the thigh. They’re slaughtered when 18-months old because that’s when the meat is the leanest. Any older and the ostrich would gain too much fat.

• The fat is used to make cosmetic creams and lotions, while the feathers are used for costumes such as in cabaret fans and outfits.

• Ostriches are hollow-boned with a very hard breast plate. Its kick is lethal and is especially hostile if you’re near its egg.

• A female ostrich lays an egg every 2-3 days from age three onwards. Full lifespan is about 60 years. One ostrich egg is equivalent to 25 chicken eggs.

• The eggs are of porous calcium and will spoil if it has been soaked in water. It can withstand the weight of a human adult in sand but will crack if you stand on it on hard surfaces.

• Ostrich thrives in a dry and sandy habitat, and swallows sand to help digest their food. Without which, they will die. An ostrich soaking in a pool of water is also a goner.

• There’re three roles played by the three most dominant males in a flock – the egg protector, the protector of a female ostrich about to lay eggs, and the king. The king can mate with any female without bowing while other males have to bow to get approval. However, if the flock is under attack, the king is the first to die as it sacrifices itself to a predator to buy time for the flock’s escape.

After the tour, we tasted ostrich meat (stir-fry with ginger and spring onion) and had this most refreshing concoction of tea with evaporated milk and winter melon essence. Super yumz! The ostrich meat was so-so, the texture resembled pork without much of a unique flavour. Maybe it’s the way it was being cooked. The dish costs MYR20.00 and the yummy tea was at MYR4.00 per glass.

The lady manager of the farm also sat down and chatted with us about different ferry routes to get to Pengerang and how she once paid MYR180 to charter a bumboat for her and her son since she couldn’t wait for more passengers. Overall, the place is worth a visit. An hour there is about just right.

NINE STITCHES CLOSER

The biggest event during the trip was Siow Har’s fall from her bicycle near the Goddess of Mercy Temple. She fell during her bid to stop her S$100-plus hat from being blown away. I didn’t witness it but I was told that her fall didn’t seem serious. But when she stood up, the lower part of her left leg was washed in blood. By the time I saw her, the bleeding has stopped so I thought it was a minor accident until I got close to see the real damage.

She sustained a really, really deep cut, and in the words of the lady who brought us to the clinic, “As big as her mouth”!. When the accident happened, quite a few local motorists stopped to help. Eventually, a kindly woman who has fetching her son from school took us to a nearby clinic. According to her, that area around the temple is ‘dirty’.

Siow Har got her wound cleaned, anesthesia localized, nine stitches, anti-tetanus shot, antibiotics and pain medicine… we were expecting a medical bill that’ll send her into seizure, but all it costs was MYR52.00! That’s so cheap! Luckily it’s so affordable as she did not buy travel insurance.

I mentioned about it on our way to Pengerang and she said there’s no need to buy for such a short trip. I wanted to buy but forgot about it. Gosh, and I’m an insurance agent! Actually, I should’ve just asked both of them anyway even though they’re not likely to buy. I have this service, but didn’t offer to them. Thankfully, the accident wasn’t something more serious or the bill much bigger, else I would really feel bad.

Although the mishap was a terrible occurrence, it brought out the kindly and helpful side of the Pengeranians. Apart from this lady, there were many people along the way whom I spoke to or asked for directions, and I could sense a genuine warmth in their responses.

I can’t help but think that those nine stitches brought us closer to Pengerang and as friends, they held us somewhat closer too. Hopefully someday soon, I’ll go back to the laid-back town again and pluck me another peacock feather. )

Malacca – 1st Click Clique Adventure

When I signed up for the SAFRA Photo Club Basic Digital Photography course 4 months ago, my aim was just to finally figure out what the dials and functions on my DSLR camera meant. But to my pleasant surprise, I got more than just understanding how to capture picture perfect moments. I learnt how to create them. Not by myself, but through a strange, unseen force that no camera can put in picture.

My moments’ creators are my course mates. Since we completed our 10 classes in late November, we’ve been on many outings, about a dozen to date. That’s a photo outing every week! But we outdid ourselves this time with a 2D1N photography trip to Malacca. This is the first time I’ve been on a ‘holiday’ with the sole purpose of taking photos, and the first time with them. I suggested Malacca because it’s not too far from Singapore. And with its buffet of historical sites, our memory cards are guaranteed to be well-fed. Not to mention forgiving our waistlines because of the exquisite Peranakan cuisine!

Apprehensive at first as I’ve never travelled cross-country with my newfound friends, I was quickly amazed by how easily we bonded. The laughs kept coming just as much as our shutters go a-clicking! From this trip, I discovered the joy of ‘jumping’ shots; reflective sunglasses make for interesting photos; and spontaneity leaves the most lasting memories.

Travel Facts

16 – 17 Jan 2010… The five of us opted to drive up to Malacca from Singapore via the Tuas causeway link. With one rest-stop, our travelling time was about 3 hours.

Accomodation : Equatorial Hotel Melaka (MYR331.20 /room/ night incl. 15% tax)

The hotel is centrally located and very close to the historical sites and Dataran Pahlawan Shopping Mall. It was a pleasant stay and each room came with a MYR88.00 F&B credit. Any unused amount is refunded at 50% as deduction from the room charges.

Exchange rate : S$1.00 = MYR2.41
Travel insurance : S$24.00
Travel expenses : S$70.00

Malacca or Melaka?

Known as The Historical State or Red City of Malaysia, Malacca may confuse the unfamiliar with its name spelt as Melaka. So which is the right name for this 2008 designated UNESCO World Heritage Site? Well, both.

Malacca was used during the colonial occupation, but when the British handed the state back to Malaya (Malaysia today), it was renamed ‘Melaka’. The third smallest state in the Malay Peninsular, Melaka formed part of the early Straits Settlements with Penang and Singapore.

How Melaka Got Its Name

It is believed that a prince, Parameswara, who fled Sumatra founded Melaka in the 1300s. One day, as he was out hunting, his hunting dog cornered a mouse deer. In self defence, the deer pushed the dog into the river. Taking it as a propitious sign of the weak overcoming the strong, the prince decided to name the place on the spot he was sitting. He named it Melaka, after the tree he was resting under.

Another version of the story says that Parameswara chose the name ‘Malacca’ from the Tamil word ‘mallakka’ which means upside down or on ones back because the dog fell on its back when the deer kicked it.

I wonder what dog the prince used for hunting. Chihuahua?

Click Clique Encounters

Every photographer has his or her style and eye for beauty. My preference is for a documentary approach where I try to take a photo not simply because the subject is beautiful, but to link it to a story I know. I akin it to looking at an attractive potential lifelong mate, but going past the beauty and understanding that person before freezing the great moment (‘signing’ a commitment). Because looks will fail, but the strength of a character endures.

But with a short trip like this one, it’s shoot-and-go. I had much wanted to spend some time in Melaka’s many museums to kaypo about the place. Nevertheless, here’s a record of the state that started as a simple fishing village that was built into a major Southeast Asian trading port in the early days, and becoming a pawn that changed hands from Portuguese, to Dutch, to British rule.

A Famosa – The Famous

Yup, that’s what it meant in Portuguese. It is among the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Asia. The Porta de Santiago, a small gatehouse, is the only remaining part of the fortress still standing. A stairway behind it leads up the hill to St Paul’s Church.

St Paul’s Church

Constructed by the Portuguese in 1521, this church was named “Our Lady of The Hill”. When the Dutch took over, they renamed it to St Paul’s Church and occupied the church until their own church, Christ Church, was completed. Old tombstones of noble Portuguese and Dutch nationals can be found in the church’s ruins today.

Dutch Square

Also known as the Red Square because all its surrounding buildings are painted red consists of the Stadthuys, Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower, Queen Victoria Fountain, and Christ Church.

Built in the 1650s, the Stadthuys (which means ‘Town Hall’ in Dutch) served as the office and residence for the Dutch Governor and his deputy. The buildings were painted red when the British took over to ease maintainability. Today, the Stadthuys serves as a Museum of History and Ethnography.

While the Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower looks Dutch, it is not. It was built in 1886 in honour of the so-named tycoon. It is commonly referred to as the Red Clock Tower. Opposite the clock tower, there’s an Indian chendol stall by the Melaka River. A friend told me it’s not to be missed, but I would say save your stomach space.

The other prominent heritage ornament here is the Queen Victoria Fountain. It was erected in 1901 by the British to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee. But perhaps the most iconic building of them all is Christ Church. Built by the Dutch in 1753, it is the oldest Protestant church in Malaysia. This is a quintessential proof of having been to Melaka.

With so many historic building gathered in one place, the Red Square seems the perfect place to start exploring Melaka. However, I would recommend that you start from A Famosa as that brings you nicely across St Paul’s Church to the Red Square, and crossing a road junction, you’ll reach Jonker Street.

If you started at the Red Square, to your right is Jonker Street, and to your left is St Paul’s Church and A Famosa… you’ll be stuck with a dilemma.

Jonker Street / Walk

This is an absolutely jolly street lined as much with antique shops as it is with old heritage houses. There’re quite a few restaurants here selling the famous Hainanese Chicken Rice Ball dish and in the evening, the street turns into a night market selling all sorts of knick knacks and goodies.

We went to Famosa Chicken Rice Ball restaurant to try the dish. The dish, not the restaurant, came up in a few friends’ recommendations when I mentioned that I’m visiting Melaka so I assumed it must be good. Wrong. It is no different than the chicken rice in Singapore except that the rice is made into balls the size of ping pongs. The ball rice is tasteless, has a hard crust, and nothing to shout about except for its novelty in shape.

The dish was a let-down, but the restaurant that we had in it made up for it. Famosa Chicken Rice Ball restaurant is very interestingly designed and modeled after the Imperial Palace in China. Two thumbs-up for the elaborate décor within a classic Chinese house of the olden days.

Peranakan Food

On the subject of food, not to be missed in the Peranakan cuisine there. I don’t know if it is right to call Melaka the birthplace of the Peranakan culture, but it does seem that the Straits-born Chinese proliferated here although the Baba-Nyonyas’ ancestry can be traced to inter-marriages between Chinese and Malays in Malaysia and Indonesia around the 1500s.

As a result, the food is a delightful blend of Southern Chinese and Malay culinary traditions, while their cultural style exploded in a myriad of colors and yielded some of the most distinctive fashion in costume and home decoration.

We had no idea which Peranakan restaurant to eat but we stumbled upon an eatery called Makko. The place was packed and we were told it was fully booked. Wow! So we wandered along Taman Melaka Raya and eventually had our lunch at a restaurant translated named 优雅 (translated as ‘Elegance’ or Indah Sayang in Malay).

The food is not bad but the attitude of the owner sucked. He came across as being somewhat haughty and impatient. The meal cost about MYR110.00 and the five of us had assam fish, squid fried with petai, chicken rendang, fried egg, steamed lady’s fingers (super yummy!), otah and chendol.

Bukit Cina

Earlier, it was mentioned that Melaka could be considered the origin for the Straits-born Chinese and Bukit Cina, or China Hill, would be ground zero. Diplomatic relations between small Malayan states with large kingdoms such as China and Siam were paramount at a time when these smaller states were like pretty maidens without a husband – everybody wanted to invade, own, and constantly fought over them.

But it was not without benefit to China to maintain good relations as these states (including Singapore) provided economic opportunities for the mainland Chinese to escape the dire situations at their home country. (With China’s emerging status as the new economic superpower, looks like history is repeating itself again.)

Central to the Chinese history of many East Asian states is Admiral Zheng He (Cheng Ho). A eunuch from the Ming Dynasty, Zheng He acted as the foreign minister of sorts and undertook several ‘Western Ocean’ voyages to give and receive gifts. Zheng He was a Muslim-Chinese.

Prince Parameswara was on good terms with the Admiral. The prince was the first Hindu to convert to Muslim in Melaka. According to legend, as a token of appreciation for Melaka’s tribute to China, the Emperor sent a princess, Hang Li Poh, to marry the Malaccan Sultan. Bukit Cina was a gift from the Sultan for his wife and entourage to settle in. Hang Li Poh brought with her hundreds of men and handmaidens who eventually married the local Malays and gave rise to the Peranakans.

However, the existence of Hang Li Poh is heavily contested because there’s no record of the princess in the Ming Dynasty’s royal lineage. Moreover, true princesses were bestowed with names of two characters such as 常平公主 (Princess Chang Ping) or 永乐咯咯 (Princess Yong Le), therefore Hang Li Po (韩丽宝) couldn’t have been a princess. It was more likely that she was a commoner given the title of princess to marry the sultan.

At the foot of Bukit Cina sits the Sam Po Kong Temple. The Chinese temple is not much of an attraction especially since its decorative style is very simple. Even the 剪粘 (chien nian – a popular Chinese decorative style where shards of colorful ceramic were cut and pasted together to depict celestial beings) on its roof were exceedingly modest compared to those found at the clan houses in Penang. It could be because this temple pre-dates many of the more extravagant clan prayer halls.

The temple houses two wells – one is the remaining of seven built by Zheng He, and the other is built by Hang Li Poh for her personal. The wells have never been dried even during periods of severe droughts. And it is believed that if one drinks the well water, he/she is bound to return to Melaka again in his/her lifetime. The well had also been poisoned a few times during the period of European in-fighting. One amazing feature of the well water is that it has a higher water tension and can rise above the brim of a cup. If the cup is covered with a piece of cloth and overturned, the well water won’t spill presumably because of its higher mineral contents thus increasing the size of the water molecules.

A small pathway beside the temple leads to a cemetery behind it. With about 12,000 graves, it is believed to be the biggest Chinese graveyard outside of China. Many of the headstones are really old so many semi-buried in centuries of neglect.

St John’s Fort

We also went to an attraction not so popular with tourists – St John’s Fort. The Fort was originally built as a chapel by the Portuguese but it was eventually renovated into a fort by the Dutch.

Sitting on top a hill, the fort is unique in the sense that it was built to defend from inland invaders, rather than the sea. Hence, the canons are faced rather awkwardly towards inland. It is located much further away from the cluster of heritage buildings and not really accessible. We were told we could get a different view of Melaka Town other than the usual scenery atop St Paul’s Church.

The view was different alright, but nothing breathtaking. Other than the fort, there’s nothing else to see so we entertained ourselves by experimenting with lots of ‘jumping’ photos. We ended up having a lot of fun there. An exemplary instance of ‘it’s not the place, but who you’re with’!

Parting Shots

Some say those who constantly seek adventure is because they lead boring lives. I would say those who don’t seek adventure have yet to live life. And through photography, I’ve been brought to places I won’t normally go and be motivated to do things I otherwise won’t. And it’s great to have a bunch of like-minded people to enjoy it with! Let’s continue to experience each irrecoverable moment and make them live a lifetime…

For more photos on Malacca, do pop by my album Melaka : 1st Click Clique Adventure.

Penang – Culture, Nature, and Food Misadventures

My only recollection of Penang was from an old photo of me looking at some snakes coiled on sticks at the Snake Temple. My father had his protective arms around me. I had a slight smile but my body language betrayed my true sense of security in my father’s embrace. Perhaps that’s a child’s intuition of the destructive force that his father will later become.

I don’t remember much of Penang so my recent trip there was as good as stepping on the island for the first time. I did quite a bit of pre-trip research and the numerous travel guidebooks and websites I consulted about Penang call it the ‘Pearl of the Orient’… a title that’s been equally bestowed on Macau. But in comparing these two island cities, Penang had a higher chance of giving one a pearl necklace although Macau seemed more of a shimmering jewel with its brightly-lit casinos and neon signs.

But the most memorable and delightful part about Penang wasn’t its heavily marketed heritage treasures or much touted hawker food. It was the people of Penang that left me with the best memories. They were the true gems. The Penangnites were uber-friendly and enthusiastically helpful. In my 4 days there, not a day goes by without me thinking, “Wow, what a nice gesture that was. That person is so nice!”

Travel Facts

Travel Period : 6 – 9 Aug 09 (Air ticket and hotel booked on 22 Jun 09)

Exchange Rate : S$1.00 = MYR2.44

Air Ticket : S$83.00 (Tiger Airways, return, incl. taxes)

Accommodation : Tune Hotel

Situated along Burmah Road, Tune Hotel is less than 10 mins walk to the city centre, KOMTAR. Burmah Road runs parallel between Penang Road (which leads to the Heritage Trail) and Macalister Road (that serves lots of hawker food) so it is pretty convenient and accessible.

Although very compact in size, the room is clean and modern with pleasant floral prints on the walls. It is really just a place to sleep and house your luggage with very little walking space. Air-conditioning is not included in the basic room rate. You need to purchase usage hours for air-con and hair-dryer, and rent the bath towels.

Cost for 3 nights Double Room (incl. air-con usage and 3 towels) – MYR171.57 (S$70.30); approx. S$11.70 per person per night. VERY CHEAP!!

Since it’s so affordable, we extended the room for another day to house our luggage and shower before heading back as the Check-Out time was 12:00pm but our flight was at 8:00pm. The extension costs MYR73.90 (S$30.30).

CULTURE, NATURE and FOOD MISADVENTURES

Who needs time travel machines when there’s Penang? Well, at least for me, it was a return to familiar childhood sights and scenes. A kind of displaced nostalgia where five-foot-ways bring recognition, but not the memories of me running down the corridors.

Also known as Pulau Pinang, Penang is a live museum of the trades and possibly, way of life many decades back. The clothes may have changed, houses have internet access now, but that old world charm of unhurried ease in watching days go by lives on.

The city is deeply steeped in historic remnants and a portmanteau of cultures that earned it a place in UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites. During this trip, I covered part of the heritage trail that brought me to Chinese temples, clan houses, churches, mosques and Indian shrines (of course I can find all these in Singapore too but not within such close proximity to each other nor are many of them as old); sampled the nature-scape of this island, and dived into its famed hawker fare (though my taste buds were rather disappointed).

SNAKE TEMPLE

Without wasting a single moment, I went straight to the Snake Temple as soon as I landed in Penang. With luggage in tow, I was eager to be back here after 30 years. The Snake Temple is very close to the airport, about 10 mins by cab, but it costs MYR26.00 as the fare is fixed by the only cab operator allowed at the airport. I was told that cabs not registered with the airport cab service cannot pick up passengers at the airport. So passengers don’t have a choice but to pay the exorbitant fare it charges.

Called the Temple of Azure Cloud (清云殿), it was built in 1850 to honor Chor Soo Kong, a monk held in high regard for his ability to heal. From what I read, snakes appeared at the temple to seek refuge after the temple was built. Taking it as a good omen, the snakes were welcomed and allowed to roam freely in the temple. However, during my visit, my burning question was, “Where are the snakes?!” I don’t even see a worm around, let alone free-ranging poisonous vipers! The vines for snakes to climb are all empty (I was later told by a cab driver that snakes are lesser in numbers now because crows come and pick them off the open-air branches).

In order to see some snakes, I had to pay MYR5.00 to visit the in-house Snakes and Reptile Exhibition. It was a poorly maintained, sort of makeshift apology for the lack of snakes in a Snake Temple. I don’t blame them if the snakes were not there since they come and go at will. But to cash in on the temple’s repute? And a haphazard one at that! I was very disappointed.

Exiting from the rip-off exhibition, I came to an area where tourists pay to get their photos taken with pythons around their necks. There were some green and yellow snakes coiled atop fake branches and stakes. They were rather high up. They don’t look real. I thought I smelt rubber on them.

CHEONG FATT TZE MANSION (a.k.a. Blue Mansion)

It is blue alright. And one of the bigger attraction in Penang. But I call it the ‘Boo’ Mansion… like how L.A. soccer fans booed David Beckham off the field and calling him a fraud. The curators at the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion have such a snooty attitude, I can see the pi sai (Hokkien for ‘snot’) in their upturned noses.

From the website, I read about the mansion’s heritage and knew that there were daily guided tours at 11:00 am and 3:00 pm. I arrived at the attraction at 3:05pm without an intention to join the tour. At the entrance, was a white-haired old man, seated, with very pale skin. He asked, “Are you here to join the tour?” “No.” I replied. “I’m here to see the mansion.”

“Then you cannot go in. You must join the tour. It’s MYR12.00 per person,” he said.

“But I don’t need a tour, I just want to see the mansion. And it past the tour time,” I replied.

“You can still pay and catch up with the tour because it just started,” he continued.

“You mean I can only see the mansion during stipulated tour times? That’s not stated in your website…” I protested.

“It’s written there (pointing to a notice panel by the door), you cannot read is it?” he asked.

Without a choice, I paid the entrance fee. Then he added, “There’s no taking of photos in the mansion. You can only take photos outside the mansion.”

What the f@#*! I came here because the mansion is beautiful and I want to photograph it and I paid f@#*king MYR12! But the worst was yet to come.

The tour was conducted by this matronly lady who was very articulate, but probably too proud of her knowledge about feng shui of the Boo Mansion, and talked down to us with an air of superiority. I agree that the precision feng shui plan and studies that went into the construction of the mansion was remarkable, but spare me the smugness of knowledge. Even the Caucasian tourists among the group were seen giving each other the look of exasperation countless times, not because of what was being said, but how it was said.

To top it off, there’re addition staff that follow you around during the tour to make sure your don’t side-step or take photos. The Boo Mansion house guests and only they have the privilege of photographing the place from inside. I can understand that special treatment. Then my point is, don’t charge freaking MYR12.00 for an hour’s tour and please state clearly in your website that non house-guests can only visit the mansion at the 2 stipulated tour times. And please inform the unknowing public that we’re not allowed to take photos of the interior.

The sign on the trishaws says “DO NOT TOUCH”. The curators don’t even bother to add ‘Please’. If I’d know earlier, I wouldn’t have come here because this place adds nothing to me by being physically present.

KEK LOK SI TEMPLE

Never mind that my first day was a little disappointing. I look forward to visiting the biggest Chinese temple in Malaysia on the second day. And it rained.

The weather at Penang during August was rather erratic. It’s sunny, gloomy and rainy all in one day. Nevertheless, we hired the van from Tune Hotel to take us to Kek Lok Si Temple. The 20 mins single trip costs MYR25. Getting around Penang in hired transport sure is expensive!

Kek Lok Si sits atop a hill at the Air Hitam precinct and is purported to be the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia. It has three parts – lower temple where all the retail shops are, mid-temple where the thousand-Buddha pagoda stands, and the top level where a gigantic statue of the Goddess of Mercy towers (unfortunately, the statue is covered in scaffolding now due to construction works for a pavilion to house it). You can take a cable car from the middle to the statue and it costs MYR8.00 for a two-way ride.

If not for the morning showers, I could imagine what a spectacular view the temple offers. You can see the whole of Georgetown (Penang’s downtown district) while lush green hills shrouded in mist surrounds you. I felt uplifted and in awe of the not-so-distant hilltops dressed in fog. There’s also a liberation pool at mid-temple where hundreds of tortoises are released into captivity. Such an irony. Some of the tortoises are really huge and looked like they’re of the same species. You can purchase vegetable at MYR1.00 a bunch and feed it to the reptiles.

This place is definitely worth a visit.

KHOO KONGSI

I almost missed out on Khoo Kongsi because with so many preserved buildings listed on Penang’s heritage trail, it can get overwhelming. Even when asked on the street, not every Penangnite knows where the location of some of the heritage buildings because like one of them said, “There are so many!”

Hidden in an alley within rows of nondescript pre-war houses, the splendor and intricately decorated Khoo Kongsi resides. For an entrance fee of MYR5.00, I must agree that this place is a must-go because not only is the building opulently decorated, the owners cleverly turned the lower level into a gallery and museum about Khoo Kongsi. This gallery and its exhibits are definitely kept in better condition and more interesting than the junkyard at the Boo Mansion that showcases artifacts and vintage memorabilia.

Built in 1901 and founded by Hokkien immigrant workers in Penang, the Khoo Kongsi is rooted firmly in Confucius’ values such as filial piety and respect for the elderly. The clanhouse even has a room with plaques that list notable members of the Khoo clan that have done the community proud. There’s even a mock-up of a kitchen scene of how early settlers lived and dined at this club that also serves as a prayer hall.

Like many of the Chinese temples and clanhouses in Penang, the rooftop of Khoo Kongsi is cluttered with the Chinese architectural art known as ‘Chien Nian’ (剪粘) where colourful shards of glazed ceramic are pasted together to form decorative objects. These objects are usually auspicious symbols in Chinese mythology such as dragons, phoenixes, and celestial scenes. But to me, it’s a whole mess up there! A beautiful mess nonetheless.

BUTTERFLY FARM

I loved this place for the opportunity to get up close and very personal with creepy crawlies. And the best part is, I get to touch and hold them! Totally awesome! Many of the insects look fearsome and dangerous but are actually very docile and gentle. I got friendly with a few species of mantises, giant millipedes and a horned lizard native to Australia.

The Butterfly Farm is about a half hour’s drive from Georgetown and an entrance fee of MYR20.00 for adult applies. I think they have different prices for different types of visitors. We were asked where do we come from and when I replied Singapore, the ticketing person immediately said MYR20.00 per person. On the counter, I saw tickets in denominations of MYR20.00, MYR15.00 and MYR10.00 (for children).

Walking into the farm, I felt like I trespassed the lair of fairies… but with a strange smell of overly ripe bananas. Established in 1986, the farm supposedly housed around 4,000 butterflies from 120 different species. But I counted only around 10 different types. Yet, it was still a magical experience. From what I read, if you put on sweet smelling perfume, the butterflies will land on you. I don’t usually put on perfume but two butterflies did land on me. Maybe they like my B.O.

There are two showtimes at 11:00 am and 3:00 pm where visitors can learn about and feel some of the insects. But my favourite was the leaf mantis in the general exhibit area. It really looked like a piece of leaf from the plant it was hanging on to and when you hold it in your hand, it moves around gingerly in a tapping manner and is so very polite.

There are also man-faced beetles, giant weevil beetles, exotic reptiles and glowing scorpions in encased exhibits too. These creatures are really amazing and beautifully designed. Just pray your visit does not coincide with sweaty school groups that emit a natural human insecticide. In addition, if you’re prone to car sickness, the winding road along Batu Ferringhi that leads to it will be a puke fest.

TOY MUSEUM

Before coming to Penang, I didn’t know there was a Toy Museum. But even if I knew, it wouldn’t have been an attraction for me. I guess I had too many things to worry during my childhood than playing with toys. But I did have a collection of Zoids, M.A.S.K. and He-Man toys. And also the ET figurine in the picture. I had one just like that with its finger tip lighting up whenever I pressed a button. At one point, it was my favourite toy.

We came to learn about the Toy Museum from a flyer. Since we had time and it was along the way back from Butterfly Farm to Georgetown, we decided to pop by. The biggest draw for me was not the toys, but what was on the flyer. Printed on both sides, the A4 sized leaflet was laid out with thumbnail images of toy exhibits there. But in many of the photos, a bespectacled uncle in white shirt appeared in them posing with the life-size toys. I think he must be the owner or something, but such misguided self-promotion was hilarious. My pic below taken with King Kong was an imitation of his pose with that same exhibit.

At the museum, expect to see many different series of toys housed in glass shelves and some life-size replicas of movie characters and heroes. A lot of the toys were playsets from movies or TV shows spin-offs such as Star Wars, Spawn, Lord of the Rings, Alien, Disney and Pixar cartoons, Japanese anime, Barbie Dolls, etc. Some of these toys, especially the ones with lots of blood and gore and the undead, were very captivating. They looked so real and eerie. I’ll post photos of these toys on my Facebook later.

The entrance fee was MYR20.00 per adult although in the flyer, it was stated to be MYR10.00. It would be worth the visit if it was the latter ticket price but not at MYR20.00. I spent only about half an hour there and the museum didn’t even have the Zoids and M.A.S.K. toys that I collected so fervently. I even cleared out 4 glass shelves in my room to display toy models of Switchblade, Raven, Thunderhawk, etc from the cartoon series.

But that’s just what I remembered of my toys. You may find a piece of your childhood there and rekindle some of that joy and memories like what ET did for me.

OTHER SIGHTS IN PENANG

For a first-time visitor to Penang, there’s pretty much to see if you’re into culture and heritage artforms. But for the many restored buildings or those left in disrepair, the pre-war colonial buildings are a common sight shared by Singaporeans, and possibly many others within the Asian region, during the British / Portugese invasion. We build monuments of who we are lest we lose our beliefs and identities.

Although there are many architectural symbols that marked an era, and many with great stories behind their construction, their value today lies in their ability to entertain, amuse, or awe. With an overcrowding of stories, lest not overlook the quiet pieces of history, manmade or natural, to fully appreciate what Penang tries to preserve. Without belittling the efforts and passion that went into building beliefs and history, here’re images of sites I met with sight, but not understanding…

WAT CHAIYAMANGALARAM

A Thai temple located at the Pulau Tikus area with a gigantic reclining buddha and columbarium. There are also 12 buddha statues there representing each of the Chinese zodiac sign. It is believed that if you make a donation at the statue that corresponds with your sign, good fortune and blessings will befall on you.

DHAMMIKARAMA BURMESE TEMPLE

Opposite the Thai temple is Dhammikarama Burmese Temple. The two temples’ parallel location make for a good study and comparison of their approaches to Buddhism. Well, I’m not much enlightened at their differences but I can see that the Burmese like bearded beasts. Maybe the beard is a sign of wisdom or trustworthiness?

This temple was supposedly founded earlier than Wat Chaiyamangalaram and was probably the reason why the lane that leads to these temples is called Burma Lane. The temple houses a gigantic standing all-marble buddha. There’re also loads of brightly painted statues there with a buck-toothed nymph being my favourite!

BATU FERRINGHI AND NIGHT BAZAAR

Batu Ferringhi is the beach resort stretch in Penang with loads of hotels situated alongside the waterfront. I had intended to soak up the sun and chill out here on returning from the Butterfly Farm but problem was, I couldn’t find a stretch of the beach that looked proper for such activities! Maybe the hotels had blocked and hoarded the best of the seafront, the place looked nothing like the bright sunny, activities-filled photos I saw. And the day I went, it rained and the sky was grey and sulky.

At night, Batu Ferringhi lights up as one of Penang’s more popular night bazaar. You get lots of T-shirts and counterfeit garments plus something interesting knick-knacks but at a price you must be prepared to bargain. I overheard a stall-owner asking for MYR30.00 for an item. The buyer decided to walk away and the price was slashed to half. Still unconvinced, the stallowner decided to settle for MYR10.00.

As someone who is too benevolent at price haggling, I skipped shopping with price ambiguity and headed for a fish spa… you know, those places where you stick your feet into a pool and becomes a buffet for a horde of fish. It was my first time. But the perpetually hungry shoal didn’t go easy on me.

For MYR30.00, I got 30 minutes to try two pools… one with smaller fish, and the other with larger swimmers up to 7 centimeters long. It was damn ticklish! Especially with the smaller fish. But after a while, I got used to the tickling feeling and it sort of got therapeutic from watching the fish coming to you. I don’t know if eating my dead skin was their main source of sustenance, but knowing that you fed someone, or something, and it is alive because of you, was magnetic for me. I hoped I had more dead skin.

CLAN JETTIES

“I go there with you… where the streets have no name… I can’t take my eyes off of you.” So sang Pet Shop Boys in the song that I so remembered, especially in contrast with a jetty of different households with the same surname! But I can’t take my eyes off of Lim nonetheless.

This is the Clan Jetty in Penang. It is also known as Weld Quay where a collection of houses on stilts form clan ‘villages’. There’re a total of 9 stretches (if I recall correctly), and each stretch of houses are home to families with the same surname. That is, if you go to the ‘Chew’ jetty, everyone there has the surname ‘Chew’. From what I read, I don’t see ‘Ng’ jetty, which is my surname, but I guess the jetties must be home to surnames from the Hokkien province of China. I belong to my paternal dialect group of Hing Hwa, which I believe is a dialect of Hokkien (imagine a dialect or a dialect!), but I never quite confirmed my ancestory.

Well, I live in Singapore and I’m encouraged to speak good English and good Mandarin. That’s the Singaporean identity. Dialects are seen as cumbersome and undermining of progress because the human brain can only store a certain number of languages. If we allowed dialects, we will sacrifice the full comprehension of profitable languages. I am relatively bilingual but I also understood the world through Cantonese and Hokkien descriptions of life. I never quite learnt Hing Hwa though. It’s a pity to lose the ability to express and be understood in non-mainstream languages, because they provide the last lineages to our heritage. So here’s Penang, still preserving and proud of its homage to tradition.

GETTING AROUND & MOVING ABOUT

Penang isn’t too difficult a place to navigate. The Heritage Trail with all its buildings of interest can be covered on foot as they’re pretty close to each other. Wherever you walk, just look up and use the Komtar building as a reference point because it towers above everything else in Georgetown.

To visit the Heritage Trail, you can also hop on the FREE shuttle bus known as the City Area Transit (CAT). The bus is pretty frequent (I think every 10 mins or so), air-conditioned, clean and comfortable. The bus travels in a loop and passes many of the heritage buildings. You can hop on the bus at the side of a bus interchange next to Komtar. Or you can take one of the many trishaws to visit the sights and experience yesterday once more, except that you’ll be sucking up car fumes and bring about global warming in your body.

Alternatively, you can try taking the public buses which charges about MYR2.00 per trip. The buses are of a standard much like the SBS buses here in Singapore. But always ask the bus driver if your destination is in his route because it seems like the same bus number at the same bus-stop can have different routes.

There many ways to get around in Penang, but do you know what’s the worst way? It’s by cab. It’s pure daylight, and night time, robbery! The cabs don’t go by meter so you’ll have to negotiate the fare before getting on. I’ve mentioned how much it costs to get from the airport to the Snake Temple earlier, and from the temple to Georgetown, a ride of about 20 mins, the fare was MYR35.00! And a cab we took back to hotel after a night at Gurney Drive costs MYR15.00 for a less than 15 mins journey.

So we decided to rent a car on the day where our itinerary was planned for further out explorations such as the Butterfly Farm, Toy Museum and Batu Ferringhi. The car rental was MYR120.00 a day. It’s about a 45 mins drive to the Butterfly Farm from Tune Hotel. Can you imagine the cab fare to and fro? Initially, we wanted to book the car rental online. The cheapest was about MYR240.00 per day. Thankfully we didn’t. Tune Hotel has a car rental counter and it’s much cheaper. It also rents bicycles for MYR10.00 a day to bike around town and offers a hotel taxi service. Two of us took the hotel van to Kek Lok Si and it costs MYR15.00 per person. The ride was about 20 mins.

DOES PENANG FOOD HAVE TALENT?

As the date for my Penang holiday drew nearer, I announced my anticipation on Facebook and I got quite a number of trip advices. But mostly, they gushed about the great food in Penang and how “the taste is different from the hawker food in Singapore. Somehow, it just tastes better!” Frankly, I don’t see what’s there to rave about. The food there is platable. But forgettable.

Perhaps it’s a case of ‘the-grass-is-greener-on-the-other-side’ syndrome, but we definintely think that the quality and taste of hawker food here in Singapore is much better. In fact, we were trying to find evidence that Penang food is tastier so we went to many places to eat. From the famous hawker district of Gurney Drive to Mcalister Road, to obscure coffeeshops by the roadside, we went to places that were comparable to eating joints we would go in Singapore.

So what’s the verdict? Well, here’s my gourmet report card for Penang :

Our very first meal : Hokkien Mee and Wanton Mee at food stalls opposite the Snake Temple.

Now I know why there’re no more snakes in the temple. To be near such bad food, anything would flee. The prawns in the Hokkien Mee looked and tasted like dried shrimps (hae bee) soaked in water for a week, and the dumplings in the Wanton Mee had too much fatty meat. And the barley water tasted like… hmmm… I don’t know how to describe… I hope diabetic pee would begin to give you the faintest idea of what it tastes like.

Fish Maw Noodle at a coffeeshop along the Goddess of Mercy Temple side of road.

Initially I thought it is thick yellow noodle or another familiar mee cooked in fish maw soup, but no. The noodle itself resembled stripes of fish maw with a chewy texture. I kind of like it because the noodles absorbed the taste of the gravy with the fragrance of fried flour.

Penang Laksa, Cuttlefish with Kangkong and Oyster Omelette at open-air hawker street along Macalister Road.

These were what we had for a second dinner. Less than 10 mins ago, we had Chicken Rice, BBQ Stingray, 3 Stuffed Crab Shells, and Char Kway Teow at another hawker area further up the road. Seven items in total! Didn’t take photos of the earlier dinner because we were too hungry and the dishes were no big deal. But the Penang Laksa was pretty good at this second place. The cuttlefish reminded me of skin-colored hearing aids while the Oyster Omelette was yummy. But again, it’s not that yummy that I would go back again. Pigging out in Penang is very affordable. I think we spent a total of about S$13 only and we had BBQ Stingray.

Chicken Rice with Roast Pork at coffeeshop next to Tune Hotel.

The stall name is called ‘Fatty’ something. I can’t remember. But I remembered the very friendly stallowner. All smiley and attentive, no wonder he sees a steady stream of customers. Plus, his Chicken Rice is pretty nice… Flavourful and satisfying.

Curry Mee at New World Park Hawker Centre.

New World Park Hawker is next to Tune Hotel as well and I thought it resembled the foodcourts of Singapore sans air-conditioning. A Penangnite from Facebook suggested that I could eat here, but I think the selection and atmosphere at the Macalister Road hawkers were more authentic Penang. New World Park Hawker Centre is located along Burmah Road and Macalister Road runs parallel to it. The array of food at NWP is extensive but not all serve the dinner crowd. We were on our way to Gurney Drive for dinner but thought we’d check out NWP since it’s along the way.

I wanted something that’s Penang so I chose Curry Mee since I saw it often enough at other eateries. Bad choice. The curry broth lacked flavour and the cockles could be used as erasers. Bleah! I can’t wait to get this mistake out of my mouth.

In the spirit to experience that side of Penang at sundown, we decided to walk from our hotel to Gurney Drive Hawker Centre. It didn’t look that far on the map. We walked for over an hour to get there. I was hot and sticky, my lower back hurts, and my tongue was still haunted by those rubbery cockles.

Finally. Finally we got to Gurney Drive. We shopped a little at Gurney Plaza before checking out the hawker centre nearby. The ambience reminded me of Satay Club in Singapore eons ago with huge umbrellas proped up to shelter diners. It was drizzling slightly that night. Undeterred, I ordered Penang Laksa and an assortment of fried chicken skin and calamari. Yumz!

The Penang Laksa here continued my delight of the same dish at Macalister Road Hawker. Its thick, white noodle was spongy and smooth, and the sardine broth was tasty. My only grouse is that there’re no pieces of sardine meat to be found. Singapore’s version of Penang Laksa is characterized by the chunks of fish meat in the soup, but in Penang, there’s hardly any meat… just broth, spices, and noodles. Being protein-conscious, I preferred the meaty version.

I had this dish, Salted Fish Fried Bee Hoon, at a coffeeshop around the Thai and Burmese temples. At first taste, my kidneys revolted. “We will report you to the Central Nervous System,” they said. But after a few mouthfuls, they were coaxed to accept that the mouth is boss. Does this mirror the political situation in some countries?

It’s interesting that the very taste that made this order detestable was the reason that it was platable. I knew what salted fish taste like but I wasn’t ready for the saline flummox. I have mixed feelings about it. It’s like rushing outdoors to enjoy the sunshine and then telling the sun that it is too bright.

Right about the third day there, we OD-ed on hawker food.

KL-ed, Sick and Overspent

I commemorated 08/08/08 with yet another KL escapade. Well, actually, it’s not much of an escapade since this is the umpteenth time I’ve been there doing much the same things, just at slightly different locations. I had decided to make the trip mainly as a celebration of sorts for Eugene, and partly also because I wanted a vacation and going anywhere that required flying is too expensive nowadays. But I think I majorly overspent this holiday.

Darn of all darns, I fell sick before the trip and my nose ran all the way from Singapore to KL and back, all 4 days 3 nights. So with shopping bags in one hand, and tissue sheets in the other, I sneezed and signed my way through the malls and clubs of KL. I think my credit card caught my flu too ‘coz it left trails of blue (sometimes black) mucus on countless receipts and bills.

TRAVEL FACTS :

Transport : RM200 (S$85.10)

3 of us took a friend’s car and it worked out to be RM100 per person each way for petrol and toll charges. We fed the car 3 times (petrol cost : RM138 + RM74 + RM100) and had to pay 3 tolls along the way (S$4.90 + RM$40.80 + RM10.80).

Travel Time :

Depart SGP (9.00am) → Arrive KL (12.30pm)
Depart KL (2.00pm) → Arrive SGP (7.30pm; traffic jam at Singapore Tuas Customs)

There are 2 lanes designated for private cars for entry into Singapore. However, many will cut the queue from the 3rd lane meant for lorries and buses. Our car was in the 2nd lane so we had to constantly keep close to the vehicle in front to stop any car from eating into our queue. For the law-abiding, the best lane to be in is the 1st lane (rightmost lane) as you don’t have to deal with those road sharks. Trying to fend off these cheaters caused us to get into a minor accident. No big deal, just a few scratches near the front left-tyre cavity.

Accommodation :

8 – 9 Aug – Replica Inn Bukit Bintang, RM172 (SS73.20 per person for 2 nights)
11 Aug – Imperial Hotel, KL (Formerly known as Sheraton Imperial), US$30 (S$50 per night)

Replica Inn is a standard budget hotel with just the basics (no pool, no gym, no fridge, no safe deposit, no restaurant or room service). The room is clean with a huge bathroom that is fuss-free in its design. The location is really great as it’s at one end of the popular food street, Jalan Alor, and just across from Bukit Bintang Plaza. But it can get a bit dusty and noisy since its right at the heart of action.

Imperial Hotel is what luxury is all about. I’m so used to budget travelling that anything with just a splash of color on the room’s wall would make me see multiple stars. My friend redeemed some of his mileage points so we paid only US$30 a night for the room. I don’t know what the rack rate is but staying on the 35th floor with such a great view, I would imagine the original price to be equally eye-popping.

Everything is perfect about this hotel. The room is gorgeous with a contemporary oriental design; the bathroom is well-mirrored (a great place to get romantic, if you know what I mean…); the gym doesn’t make me feel like a hamster on a wheel, the pool is positioned along the path of the sun with comfy, cushioned deck chairs and tents; the lobby is grand with layers of cascading marble stairs; and I discovered the deep relaxation of hot-cold jacuzzi at its spa recess.

I’ve heard of the practice where one gets hydraulically massaged in a hot jac and then going immediately into an adjourning cold pool. Without a thought, I stuck my leg into the hot pool only to realize that that thing can make soup out of me (you see, I’ve only been to jacs no warmer than my pee so far). And when I played human thermometer at the cold pool, I thought of the Arctic. It’s pure Nazi therapy. But I tried. As I slowly immersed myself in the hot jac, the heat sent serious goosebumps all over my body that’s still out of water. But once my body got accustomed to the warmth, it was just like soaking in any normal jac. I boiled myself for about 10 minutes. I think the steam must’ve dissolved grey matter along with my tension for I did the unthinkable… I crossed over to the other side.

The water was ice-cold but I felt so comfortable in it. I think fried ice-creams must feel that way too, just reversed. The feeling was indescribable. Heat emanated from my body, cold peeling it away. It was calming, soothing, relaxing, relieving, refreshing, serene, tranquil, peaceful, lulling… ah… and I stretched out my legs. Then the cold bit me right away. Stay in one position and it felt nice. Move around, and pleasure became torture. So staying in one’s comfort zone isn’t always a bad thing. Well, at least until it starts getting uncomfortable.

Exchange Rate : S$1.00 = RM2.37 (Fri. rate) – RM 2.32 (Sun. rate)

Travel Insurance : S$28

Total Spent : S$450 + S$75 + S$310 (Credit Card) + S$101.30 = S$936.30!!!!!

Whore Wallet

Gasp! I’m still reeling from having just calculated my total expenditure. My wallet is such a whore! Always opening its flat legs, ejaculating cash and credit card every store I walked into. *sigh* I told myself I won’t shop much this trip because I still have 6 to 7 bags of new clothes I haven’t worn from previous trips. The only consolation is that what I bought this trip are all radically different from the largely singlet and t-shirt ensembles I had accumulated. This time round I went more for casual shirts, jackets and pants.

I succumb to sales easily and have this habit of storing new clothes and wearing them only after my old ones are worn out. Yet, I get so comfortable in those old garbs, I hardly throw any out. So I still have brand new clothes from previous purchases, some up to 3 years ago, still nicely folded and wrapped up in plastic bags. But I had given some out because I can’t fit into them anymore. Those wretched cloth time-bombs, so unforgiving of age and a few extra pounds. So I better start wearing them soon or conduct a closet sale.

This trip to KL I discovered One Utama, another mega mall that’s slightly further out from the city. Thanks to David who took us there or I wouldn’t discover how loose my wallet was. But frankly, all the malls are infected by chain retailers and they carry similar products. It was just a matter of who has the right sizes or a slightly wider range. I’m quite a fan of the local brands Padini Authentics, PDI, and Seed. This time round I bought into Malaysian designers Key Ng and Michael Ong, mostly ‘coz they were on sale. Key Ng’s designs are very wayang and what female impersonators might wear on their days off, but his clothes are a nice fit for me. Initially I thought the designs were outlandish and didn’t cast another look, but once I tried the more somber pieces on, my wallet opened its lips. Michael Ong is more understated and I bought 2 super low-neck long-sleeved pullovers. Don’t know if I’ll have the guts to wear them in Singapore though.

Silly Drunk Pics

The other large chunk of my travel budget went down in pisses. Drinking in KL is only slightly cheaper than in Singapore so with that minor discount at the back of my mind, I spent much more than I would on a night out back here. Here’re some bar prices from the clubs we went to :

Absolut Vodka (0.75L) – RM300
Carlsberg beer (bottle) – RM20
Lychee Martini – RM30
Beer on tap (jug) – RM38.50 (happy hour), RM61 (after 1am)

Went to more or less the same places except for Ratkem Celap on Saturday night. This club was pretty obscure and rather out of the way. It looked like a bungalow converted into a party house with outdoor patios and a small, oblong dance floor, which was packed. Given that the door bitch had an attitude so grim, I wouldn’t make the extra effort there next time.

Of late, I had grown a penchant for photographing friends when they’re in a very susceptible state for embarrassing poses. I, too, don’t escape the fate of my Nokia N82 5-mega pixel eye. Edison Chen would’ve admired my camera work. But that’s the fun part of getting drunk, to be possessed by the ability to act silly. And also have the pics as a refresher when alcoholic amnesia sets in. I used to think that it is bull crap when friends tell me they can’t remember a drunk when they’re drunk. Now, I’m experiencing memory lapses when I’ve gone too far off the end. I don’t even remember bits and pieces. It’s a total mental block or a very slow recall. Time to cut back on the drinks before I lose more of my existence.

Despite my flu, unfamiliar travel buddies and a reprehension that I would have much fun in this KL trip, I must say the score card added up pretty well with stories to tell. For one, I had witnessed the birth of an ear-licker. Ha.

The KL in knell

Knell /nel/ n (usu sing) the sound of a bell rung slowly after a death or at a funeral.

The acronym of Kuala Lumpur spelt and summed up the knell of a time I had during this most recent trip. Maybe it’s because I had been to KL too many times within the past 3 years and my last trip was only about 3 months ago. The shopping is still great, especially since it’s going to be Hari Raya Puasa soon and so the height of the sale frenzy. Food-wise, it is good value because of the exchange rate, but clubbing is a less than fun experience compared to Singapore.

We went to Farginnapi Bar, Onovu and Namiso and they charged an entrance fee of between RM$25 to RM$30 for one standard drink. Onovu serves the worst vodka orange I had ever tasted. The orange juice is diluted and there’s hardly any taste of vodka in it at all. The bar price is RM$20 for a bottle of Heineken Beer and RM$80 for a jug of vodka orange. Apparently, the KL dwellers only club on Saturday. I don’t know if that’s because of the month of Ramadhan, but Onovu was rather empty on Friday, full on Saturday, and closed on Sunday. Namiso was opened on Sunday but you can number the patronage easily.

SKYBRIDGE de-TOUR

Other than that, I still didn’t get to go on the Skybridge tour of the Petronas Twin Towers. I read that we have to queue for about 1 to 2 hours to get the free tickets for the tour and only 1,300 free tickets are issued daily. During the weekends, people start queuing as early as 7.30am for the first tour that starts at 8.30am. There’s an exhibition about the Twin Towers and Skybridge on the ground level but you’re allowed only 10 mins on the Skybridge itself. The Skybridge is on the 41st level of the towers and offers a vantage view of KL city. However, part of that view is blocked and a better way to view the city is to actually go to the KL Tower instead. A taxi driver told us that some 5-star hotels have tickets reserved and will release it to their guests, or you could pay someone RM$15 per ticket to queue for you. The queue is shorter during the weekdays, but the tour is closed on Mondays. So after considering the odds, we decided to give the Skybridge a miss and also because we didn’t wake up early enough.

TRAVEL FACTS

Transport : Transtar Premium 39-seater coach (S$47.00) / Transtar First Class 16-seater coach (S$41.00)

Travel Insurance : S$28.00

Departure (SGP) : 5 Oct 07, Friday, 8:30am, Golden Mile Complex (Arrived at KL 1:30pm)

Departure (KL) : 8 Aug 07, Monday, 6:00pm, Pasarakyat (Arrived SGP at 10:00pm.)

Accommodation : Capitol Hotel Deluxe Room, RM$230 per night (RM$70 per night for additional bed).

Sandwiched between Plaza Sungei Wang and Plaza Low Yat, the hotel is really right at the heart of the major shopping complexes. But, good location is the ONLY advantage this hotel has to offer. The hotel and room looks neat and spanky (as compared to some of the other worn-out mid-range hotels around Bukit Bintang area), but the room is really small and the hotel is skim on facilities. There is no swimming pool, no gym, no bathtub in the toilet, and does not include breakfast. And the service staffs have no smiles.

The safe deposit box in the room was jammed and I had to call the reception 3 times in over half an hour before someone finally came and fix it. And the receptionist sounded like she was either going to faint from her Ramadhan fasting or Marilyn Monroe drawing her dying breath. Then on our second night, the tap in the shower burst and we had to change room. The new room, which was just across from our old one, had a weird layout. The room door was just in front of the cupboard door and they open into each other. But that was all still acceptable.

What wasn’t acceptable was the fact that we booked a wake-up call, but that call never came! A morning call is probably the most basic service that a hotel needs to get right. We booked a call for 10am so that we could make it to the Skybridge by 11am to get a ticket for the tour. We weren’t woken up at 10am and by the time we roused from bed, it’s too late to get a ticket. Thankfully it wasn’t a life and death matter. Imagine if we were to miss a flight or business meeting just because the hotel cannot be relied on for a morning call? There’re 3 of us in the room so it can’t be all 3 not hearing it and I’ve known hotels to knock on your door if you fail to pick up the morning call. And one of my friends actually heard the reception staff bickering right in front of a customer. I didn’t see it personally, but if that was true, then I would’ve experienced the worst in hotel service.

Exchange Rate : S$1.00 to RM$2.29 (Travel Expenses : S$400, exclude transport, accommodation and insurance.)

WHAT I LEARNT ABOUT MYSELF DURING THIS TRIP

1) That I can still dance like a caffeinated monkey who had too much sugar for more than 2 hours, non-stop, no drugs.

2) That I’m more impatient than I thought I am patient.

3) That I’m less forgiving than I believed myself to be.

4) That I can never be romantically attracted to someone too much younger than me.

5) That I cannot resist buying something that I don’t need just because it is cheap.

6) That I continue to eat, even though I’m already full, as long as there’s still food on the table.

THE BEST THING DURING THE TRIP

We met this most charming waitress at Olio Dome located at Lot 10. The Indian girl is all smiles and chatty with a warmth that is sincere and very natural. So compelled were we by her personable service that we each wrote her a compliment on the feedback forms. I think her name is Kiruba. One smile can really soothe a bumpy mile…

On repeat : Kuala Lumpur

Why do I keep visiting Kuala Lumpur on an astrologer’s dozen make-beliefs (with every month represented by some pseudo cosmic presence that defines personalities? Come on!), when I really wanted to explore new territories? Maybe it’s travelling within the comfort zone, knowing what to expect, recognizing the roads that’ll lead to where I’m headed… But there’s only so much space in my wardrobe for clothes, and that possibly quantifiable amount of alcohol I can drink before I quarrel with the sanitary bowl. Still, I’m back in KL. Doing the same things… shop, club, shop, club. And I didn’t even eat much good food on this trip.

Had initially wanted to do just a Friday to Sunday skipover, but extended till Monday because more friends decided to run away from Singapore as well. But repeated visits to one place is like a relationship. There were some surprises but I grew familiar and I knew where to touch to get what I wanted. I navigated the map to my enjoyment. Sometimes I have in mind to do more, yet did not. But hey, free-and-easy holidays meant we flow with the go. Still, whenever I travel, especially to places I’ve been before, I make it a point to do something differently. I want to experience life like the locals do. I’d more readily get lost on local transport than position my arms on a 90-degree cab flag-down. And with cities like KL, I realized from this trip that getting around in her three-operator rail system was easier than getting jailhouses to practice non-preferential treatments for celebrity prisoners. (What?! Christopher Lee’s hair was not shaved when he served his only 28-days prison term for drunk driving, injuring two motorcyclists, and fleeing the scene? And he got his own prison cell?) Oh well, on with the country that Chris Lee came from…

TRAVEL FACTS

Departure (Singapore) : 22 Jun 07, Friday, 8:30am (Arived KL at 2:00pm). Transtar Premium Coach (S$41)

Departure (KL) : 25 Jun 07, Monday, 6:00pm (arrived SGP at 1:15pm). Transtar 1st-Class Coach (S$47, incl S$10 admin charge for changing departure date; else, the return ticket is S$37)

SGP to KL Travel Time : Approx. 5 hours (two 15-mins stops for toilet breaks)

Accommodation : Corus Hotel (S$50 per night per person, no breakfast included). It’s a four-star hotel along Jalan Ampang and about five minutes from KL City Centre. I find that it is not a very convenient location because most of our activities were around Jalan Bukit Bintang (about five minutes cab ride away depending on traffic conditions).

Exchange Rate : S$1.00 to RM$2.23

Is it true that when we get familiar with someone, we tend to take the good things he/she offers for granted and tend to nick-pick? I’ve never remembered KL people to be rude, but this trip I had heaped servings (other than those staff at the M’sian tourism center and Customs) of their hostilities.

Scenario 1 : People pushing past you in the clubs. They literally squeezed past without being the least bit apologetic; no ‘excuse me’ or ‘I’m sorry’. No doubt the clubs are packed but there’s still room for courtesy. Maybe because I’m Asian and not Caucasian.

Scenario 2 : M’sian Indians want more tips. Racial sedition is not cool, but from my two encounters at tipping an Indian bar waiter (he looked Bangladeshi) and cab driver, I was surprised that they actually asked for more than what I gave them. At the Farginnapi Bar, I tipped the waiter RM$10 for bringing us four cans of Coke as mixers. He immediately asked for RM$20 claiming that one can of Coke cost RM$5. But all mixers were free because we opened a bottle of Chivas (RM$420). That guy was trying to dupe me into giving him money he’s not supposed to get. Later he turned around and asked me not to tell the boss about the incident.

And on the way back to the hotel in a cab, I paid RM$8 for a fare of RM$5.80, the extra being tips. And guess what? The cab driver held on to the money without thanks, turned around and gave me a disgusted snigger. I could tell from his body language that he was on the verge of asking for more. It was an Indian driver.

Scenario 3 : Cab drivers who refused to turn on mileage meters and charge a flat rate of RM$10 going anywhere within the prime areas. I thought that problem was eradicated when I was there about a year ago and cabs are metered. Apparently not. If you travel at night or if the cab driver can tell that you’re a tourist, they will tell you that going anywhere is a flat rate of RM$10 to RM$15. I checked with two local friends there and they said that that’s not the case; the drivers should turn on their meters and charge accordingly. But after meeting five of these drivers, you have no choice but to relent to their charges.

Scenario 4 : Shopkeeper cursing you. Being the bargain hunter that I am, I went to KL’s Chinatown (known as Petaling Street) to scout some good buys. As I was moved along the packed roadside stalls, I checked out some sunglasses and asked how much was the brown-tint Ray Ban sunglass I tried on. The Chinese vendor said, “RM$45”. But I had seen the exact same glasses at the Central Market for only RM$12.90 (the sunglasses there weren’t well-maintained and slightly out-of-shape so I didn’t buy there) so I bargained. Almost immediately, he reduced it to RM$20. I was ready to pay the difference since the glasses were in better condition, but I didn’t like the dishonesty of that store so I turned to go out of principle. Then he said in Cantonese, “Okay, RM$8.00”. Wow! RM$8.00!!?? That’s only S$3.50 for really cool sunglasses! Who cares about integrity? So I turned around and wanted to try on more glasses only to have him say in my face, “You wish! You go and DIE early!” I am NOT exaggerating. Those were his exact words… In Cantonese.

THE DOWNSIDE UP

As a traveler, I am pretty accepting of the oddities during a trip. I mean, if I expected everything to be the same as in Singapore, I might as well not go anywhere. But KL being the capital of Malaysia and a developed metropolitan, there must be some urban standards that one will come to expect. And I didn’t expect to find the male toilet at the Pasarakyat Bus Terminal to be in a state of waste. Flies buzzed around and tap-dance on my skin while I took a leak on urinals the color of a smoker’s stained enamel.

For goodness sake, this is a coach terminal! It is the first place a visitor will encounter and the last place he will leave from. Imagine riding in the luxury of a first-class coach to be dropped off into a worst-class toilet. The whole complex is a terminal wasteland. And don’t eat at Yok Yat (Seafood) Bak Kut Teh located a few streets down. For just a bowl of Bak Kut Teh (four pieces of pork ribs), a bowl of pig’s liver soup, two pieces of tow pok (fried beanskin), a bowl of you tiao (fried flour sticks), two bowls of rice and a pot of tea, we were charged RM$29! It could be worth it if the meal was exceptional, but I bet that Joy’s dog food would be tastier. The pigs died in vain being a dish for this restaurant. It’s yuck-a-dy Yat!

Thankfully, the wine chicken noodle and curry noodle redeemed that first bad lunch. Don’t know the exact stalls at Jalan Alor they were bought from, but they were really delicious. Also managed to scout some pretty good bargains this trip with my best buys being stylo-mylo Ray Ban shades at RM$15 a piece at Chinatown (around Bukit Bintang, the price was RM$25). The things there were pretty cheap but you must bargain. Other than Chinatown, I also shopped some cheap t-shirts at Jusco. I used to think that Parkson Grand was good value for money, but the Jusco departmental store at Mid Valley had more bargain bin stuff, which are death-traps for my credit card.

As for clubbing, there weren’t much amusement. It’s expensive to piss at the clubs because the bar prices are the same, if not slightly more expensive than in SGP. We went to Onovu and the carpeted entrance smelled of week-old puke and the place was crawling with exhibitionists gyrating to nursery rhymes pretending to be club music. We also visited Namiso where its patronage probably bought their clothes from the Salvation Army donation centers. Well, at least their dress sense provided visual comedy and distracted from the lack of anyone good-looking around. Then half-way through the night, the club suddenly cleared. Within five minutes, the six of us were left bewildered in the empty club with the music still pumping and lights flashing. Apparently, there was a rumored raid by the narcotics police, so those on illegal substances had to leave. And the whole club was empty. We were the only ones left watching the waiters pick up ‘stuff’ from the floor. It was a pity because the music was really groovy. After about 15 minutes, half the crowd returned but it was almost closing time.

The clubs in KL close precisely at 3am. So since we just go warmed up, we went back and continued our drinks with games. Leroy and I checked out of Corus Hotel and stayed our extended night with Adrian and the rest at Somerset Service Residences. It had 2 rooms, a living room and a kitchen. I was told that the apartment rates go for RM$800 a night. But since Karen works for the hotelier’s SGP office, she got it for S$70 per night. It was a very nice stay with TV, hi-fi system and all, but the best part was the service. The staff were very polite and anticipated our needs. After we checked out, they promptly asked if we needed a taxi and went out to the main road to hail one in. I’m not one of those pampered traveler, but I think I could really get used to it.

On the whole, this had been a good break since I hadn’t gone anywhere for more than a year. The only regret is that I spent too much time sleeping and recovering from hangovers than to fulfill the itinerary I had planned for the trip. I still haven’t gone on the morning tour of the Petronas Twin Towers bridge. Perhaps the next trip.

Smog . Snort . Shop

[NEW ENTRY] : Smog . Snort . Shop

Available at Friendster blog : http://www.darren_ng.blogs.friendster.com

Batu Pahat 11-12 June 05

“Batu Pahat… where?” Most of my city-dweller friends had no idea. They also have no idea that this quiet and sleepy city actually had much to offer in terms of good food, great shopping and friendliness out of a tap. It’s urban rustic charm reminisce of Singapore in the early 80s and a pace of life that’s leisurely casual. Retirement village crossed our minds. And why not?

But get under its skin and I was amused by the appetite for fun that the middle-aged Pahatians had. They were so virile in their partying that the 20-somethings in Singapore are mere wimps by comparison. So that’s my kind of spirit for fun. I liked it so much, I even got acquainted with a muddy side drain.

Well, here’re some travel details about the trip :

We decided to take the bus there so we had to hop on a bus (but we took a cab in the end) from Rochor (Singapore) to go to Larkin (Johor Bahru, Malaysia), then from Larkin, we took a bus to Batu Pahat.

Transport :

DEPARTURE TRIP >> SGP to Larkin by cab : S$10.00 per person; Larkin to Batu Pahat by bus : RM$8.20

RETURN TRIP >> Batu Pahat to Larkin by bus : RM$8.00; Larkin to SGP by private car : S$15.00 per person

Travelling Time : Larkin to Batu Pahat – approx. 2 to 2.5 hrs

Accomodation : Crystal Inn, RM$138.00 (Deluxe Room)

Exchange rate : S$1.00 to RM$2.27

Well, before the trip was over, Jason, Anis and myself were already making plans to visit again within the next 3 months. I suspect this will be my regular pilgrimage, since my birth father had settled down there too. Travel in pictures with photo album, Batu Pahat, http://www.darren_ng.blogs.friendster.com.

Oops… I KL-ed AGAIN

Travelled twice this month, and twice to Kuala Lumpur within a quarter. I’m back to travelling with a vengence! I’m already planning for my next trip to Batu Pahat on 11 June 05. The Malaysian economy should register a bumper growth these few weeks, especially in the garment sector. Yup, bombed my budget again. Told myself I won’t spend more than S$150, but in the end, I think I doubled that. It was just a very short weekend trip, yet I managed to run wild with my finances. This proved one thing, there’s lots to spend on in KL!

Firstly, food is so cheap. A lunch of chicken rice for 2 with drinks and fried kway teow cost only S$6.00. But the best meal was lunch at a hawker center near the coach station. Simply heavenly. Anway, here’re some travel facts :

Exchange rate : S$1.00 to RM$2.28

Coach fare : S$62.00 (2-way, 3-seater Transtar Executive) Got a discount coz Melvin’s sister works in the travel line. Original price is S$39.00 (1-way)

Coach travelling time : 5 to 6 hours

Saturday (28/05/05) – Depart SG 7.30am, Arrive KL 2.00pm
Sunday (29/05/05) – Depart KL 3.00pm, Arrive SG 8.30pm
Accomodation : Marriott Hotel (Chris on business trip so just bunked in)

Then, shopping was great. I think they have a sale going on now (then again, sale is perpetual everywhere isn’t it?) and I got some really good bargains. Especially at the Factory Outlet Shop where I bought a number of Abercrombie stuff the last time. A wide selection of the T-shirts are now going for RM$19.90 (S$8.70) including some of the designs I bought the last trip. Damn! They used to be RM$33.90. More on the trip is in my photo album, KL Again, http://www.darren_ng.blogs.friendster.com.

Bangkok 21-24 May 05

Like getting re-acquainted with a long-lost friend. I reached home poorer, but felt much richer. I was exhausted, but totally re-energised. Ignorant, yet learned. Bangkok is my perpetual treasure trove. I brought back diamonds of clothing, pearls of home decor, rubies of snacks and ate sapphires of great food.

This trip marked a few firsts. This is the first time I’m on a plane again since that panic episode more than 3 years ago. It is also the first time I visited Ayuttaya and the first time I went single. Not that that matters…

Much had remained the same even though I had not visited in 5 years. One pleasant change though is that it’s easier to get a cab now and they’re in better condition. Also, the drivers do not hagger for the fare now and charges are by the meter. Anyway, here’re some travel facts :

Air ticket : S$179.00 (Tiger Airways)

Accomodation : Bab Barr (1,444 bht), Silom Serene (2,200 bht). Total 3 nights stay : 5,844 bht (S$246.58). Approx. S$123.29/pax

Exchange rate : S$1.00 to 23.70 bht

Ayuttaya Day Trip : 2,000 bht (+ 300 bht long-tail boat)

Took 9-seater mini van, 45 mins to reach Summer Palace, then 45 mins long-tail boat ride to outskirt of Ayuttaya followed by 30 mins van ride to Ayuttaya, then 3-hours boat ride along Chao Praya river back to Bangkok. Trip duration : 7am – 4pm.

Taxi fare : Upon boarding, 35 bht. Every increment is 2 bht.

Toll charges : When using the expressway, there’re toll charges ranging from 30 – 40 bht.

Bangkok Airport tax : 500 bht. Dispensed through machines at the airport.

On the whole, this trip was fantastic. A few feathers were ruffled and I almost got into a fight with someone, but thankfully I thought better of it. I am glad I was able to hold myself back now. If it had been years before, I may had expressed myself through my knuckles. Anyway, thanks to all my friends who took a chance and took the flight with me. Even though I felt a little uncomfortable initially when I boarded the plane, I made it there. And back!

More photos and travelogue in my photo album, Bangkok Rebirth, http://www.darren_ng.blogs.friendster.com.